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Anti Lag

6.4K views 53 replies 25 participants last post by  Reaper1  
#1 ·
what do i need to make a anti lag valve and is it worth it? thanks
 
#3 ·
you need a 1 2 1/4 inch fernco Y pipe, 1 2 1/4 Sump Check valve, you should be able too get that in you local plumbing store, and a filter to put on the end of that valve.

Also when you make it make sure you dremel or cut a notch into the check valve on the end that you connect too your intake otherwise it'll blow off under boost.

check out my webpage too see a picture of mine... sorry for the shitty quality

http://shelbyz.cjb.net
 
#6 ·
hey praxis have you tried it? No that's what I thought soo... STFU!

and no the antilage valve will not work on a draw thru car

Look at it this way, when not in boost your car has to draw air thru the I/C and the Turbo but with the check valve in place under vacuum it will swing open and allow your car to get up to power faster. I experinced a 250 rpm improvement in spool, it was now at full boost a 2250 as apposed to the 2500 it was prior, it also makes lazy non boosted driving more responsive. You don't think it works? well you'd only be out about 20 bucks to try, I think it was worth the 20 dollars and 20 minutes it took to install, plus it makes an awesome sucking sound when it's open then the boost slams it shut and all you hear is hairdryer :)
 
#8 ·
I guess saying the anti-lag valve doesn't work is kinda like saying you can port heads well but just don't supply any proof. At least me saying it works I have my proof
 
#9 ·
i have a customer that has a anti lag system on his wrx, it works. it works really well. now his is electronic, it's tied into the stand alone fuel computer.
if the system is on you can go down the road at wot and push the clutch in-then the system takes over. it keeps the rpm at what ever it was when you pushed the clutch in, then opens a valve that lets the boost escape, then closes then opens (an so on). so if you enter a turn at 60 mph in 4th gear, push the clutch in. (the anti lag comes on because it sees a speed sensor and tach signal) get on the brakes to make the turn, let the clutch out its right back to were it was when you entered the turn. the best part is the popping sound it makes as the boost is escaping.

scot
 
#10 ·
#13 ·
Taken right from the site: "The "D-valve" is an idea of Dan Culkin's in which a check valve is teed into the upper intercooler hose to allow air to be drawn in more easily when the system is in vacuum, bypassing the turbo and intercooler. This results in much quicker throttle response and spool-up. Once any boost is produced, the valve immediately closes."

Ive heard of them breaking, but thats if you use crappy parts. If you read, then think about how it would work, you will realize how it works.

BTW, I dont think Dan Culkin would promote something that doesnt work, think about it. Besides, its would be great for street use, for better responce.
 
#14 ·
Praxis said:
hahahahahhahahahahahahahahhahahah oh man, that is the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen.

Guys actually use thes and think they work? That has to rank right up there with the throttle body spacers and duralube .

hahahahahha
Wow, showing off your intelligence?
 
#16 ·
Orangetona said:
LOL.

BTW, did you ever get that head done? I wanna see how you put up against steve. :bash:
You are talking to Praxis, correct?
 
G
#18 ·
Ok, you guys do realize that the turbo will aid part throttle power even under vacuum don't ya?

As for my heads. Yep, got a few done. I can tell you this... oversized valves are a step backwards, back cutting the exhaust valve improves flow on the bench, but hampers power on the dyno.

My camshaft profiles add WAY more power then the headwork alone. Yes, I made the SAME power with a ported head and non ported head with the stock turbo flat out (cranked to the point where further increases in boost no longer produced measurable power gains - 17 psi ported, 24 psi non), all tuned for a 12.2:1 af, and timing optimized. The difference was, the stock head made more peak torque sooner, the ported head carried peak power up higher.... basically just a shifting of the hp curve, just like I predicted in the thread you pointed out.
 
#20 ·
Praxis said:
Ok, you guys do realize that the turbo will aid part throttle power even under vacuum don't ya?

As for my heads. Yep, got a few done. I can tell you this... oversized valves are a step backwards, back cutting the exhaust valve improves flow on the bench, but hampers power on the dyno.

My camshaft profiles add WAY more power then the headwork alone. Yes, I made the SAME power with a ported head and non ported head with the stock turbo flat out (cranked to the point where further increases in boost no longer produced measurable power gains - 17 psi ported, 24 psi non), all tuned for a 12.2:1 af, and timing optimized. The difference was, the stock head made more peak torque sooner, the ported head carried peak power up higher.... basically just a shifting of the hp curve, just like I predicted in the thread you pointed out.
Classic, had to be quoted!
 
#22 ·
beefalobilly said:
how is a turbo going to help power when the engines in vacuum?? that makes no sense
Ever disconnected your wastegate arm so you have no boost?
You will be at a much different reading on a vac gauge with no boost maintaining a certain RPM than you will with the Turbo. Just because it is not producing boost does not mean it is not producing power.

(p.s. That Money is on its way to you)

-Bryan
 
#23 ·
Praxis said:
Ok, you guys do realize that the turbo will aid part throttle power even under vacuum don't ya?

As for my heads. Yep, got a few done. I can tell you this... oversized valves are a step backwards, back cutting the exhaust valve improves flow on the bench, but hampers power on the dyno.

My camshaft profiles add WAY more power then the headwork alone. Yes, I made the SAME power with a ported head and non ported head with the stock turbo flat out (cranked to the point where further increases in boost no longer produced measurable power gains - 17 psi ported, 24 psi non), all tuned for a 12.2:1 af, and timing optimized. The difference was, the stock head made more peak torque sooner, the ported head carried peak power up higher.... basically just a shifting of the hp curve, just like I predicted in the thread you pointed out.
I know I posted the link here, but this stuff should probably end up in the 8V thread. There's alot of good discussion in there so it's a good place for it. Just for the sake of reference :cool:
 
#25 ·
If you choose to use use a "D" valve, be sure to put some kind of air filter on it.
 
#26 ·
I've tried the D-valve on two vehicles and it works; although I don't believe it would be worthwhile on a car with a higher flowing intercooler. The stock T2 intercooler is fairly restrictive and it takes time for the turbo to overcome the restriction. It's during this time, when the turbo is still spooling and the engine is under vacuum, that the valve allows the engine a big gulp of air it wouldn't normally be able to get. As soon as you get into boost, the valve seals shut. Both the vehicles I tried it on had noticeably faster spoolup. It sounded like a giant match striking as it took each breath, when reving the engine.

I'm not going to do this mod on my GLH Turbo, which I just installed an NPR intercooler in. I doubt the gain would be worth it, and the packaging would probably make it impractical or not asthetically pleasing.