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corelokt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My 94 shadow. Which is my currently only vehicle, has gone belly up.
I have a no fuel pump situation. I checked relays, all good. I checked fuses, all good. I put in a pump (stupid waste of money), checked and no power to the pump.
Pulled my ecm and the silicone sealer had chunks patched with different sealer. It had spots needing sealer. I've sealed it, but not having much faith in it and I have a 12 plus hour each way trip coming up soon.
Is it hard to bypass the ecm, or impossible?
If I go carbed and stand alone ignition (I have a pertronix), can I lose it and keep my intermittent wipers (the only option in the vehicle)?
 
#2 ·
Nothings impossible but eliminating the SBEC isn't practical.

With SMEC's the fuel pump could be energized with 12 V to the coil +.

Might be worth a try for testing purposes.

I'd be looking for another SBEC.

Good Luck!

Thanks
Randy
 
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#3 ·
First, is this a 2.2L/2.5L or 3.0L engine?
You say you have no fuel pump, do you have spark, do you have injector pulse?
The engine controller Does Not Power the Fuel Pump, the Engine Controller controls the "Ground Side" of the ASD Relay which supplies power to the Fuel Pump, + Coil and Injectors.
The Controller Will Not Actuate (Ground) the ASD Relay until it see's a Crank/RPM Signal from the HEP on a 2.2L/2.5L or the Optical Distributor on a 3.0L.

Using a 12 volt test lamp connected to battery - crank the engine and probe the coil + terminal with the test lamp.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
If Yes then the ASD relay is being actuated and functioning fine which would mean you have a wiring issue if there is no power to the fuel pump.
If No then the ASD is not being actuated and you need to check the HEP circuit.

www.turbododge.com

No Start,No Spark 84-94 2.2/2.5L

*Before performing diagnostic tests check for any fault codes that may be present. If fault codes are present, clear them(battery disconnect) and crank the engine for 10 seconds and recheck codes. If codes are present repair them before continuing. *These tests can also be run on 91...
www.turbododge.com www.turbododge.com
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I appreciate all this help. I removed the computer and chunks of the silicone were missing and it was corroded. I ordered a new one. I really like this car and plan on keeping it.
It has always run rough. Sometimes stalls. It's been tuned. Low mileage engine. New can and timing belt, etc.
I'll try bypassing the asd.
I really miss old school vehicles with just a hei distributor.
 
#6 ·
Also, where did you order another controller?
Was it a Cardone?
[/QUOTE]

NAJ:

I'm curious that you mentioned Cardone, because I replaced my engine controller in the 87 GLHS with one.
Are there problems with the Cardone?
Any better choices?
 
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#7 ·
Jim Falco said:
Also, where did you order another controller?
Was it a Cardone?
Click to expand...
NAJ:

I'm curious that you mentioned Cardone, because I replaced my engine controller in the 87 GLHS with one.
Are there problems with the Cardone?
Any better choices?
[/QUOTE]

That is great that you received a Cardone ECM that works, unfortunately it is a crap shoot and it shouldn't have to be.
When I was a Commercial Sales Manager with Autozone (2012 -2018) we had nothing but problems with Cardone Engine Controllers, problems consisting of they would not flash, car would not start/run, driveabilty issues, etc. and shops were getting pissed off about it.
Autozone has a labor claim policy with commercial accounts, if any part fails within the warranty period not only do they replace the part for free they will also reimburse the labor it took to reinstall another part.
It must have been a constant nationwide problem with All/Most of Cardone's remanufactured components, in 2017 Autozone discontinued business relations with Cardone (kicked them to the curb as I like to say) due to poor quality issues.
They found other vendors for 99% of the remanufactured products they carry, getting remanufactured ECM's was a little more difficult.
I retired in 2018 so I do not know what is happening now with ECM's.
The problem is that Cardone pretty much has a monopoly on the ECM market so quality control does not seem to be a concern for them since they are pretty much your only source.

Others will tell you that they have used Cardone products with out issue and that may be true, unfortunately my experience over the years says that is not the norm.
Unfortunately if that is all there is you have no choice and they know that.

My advice is...
Before buying an aftermarket remanufactured engine controller be absolutely, 100% positive that the ECM is actually the problem which means following ALL pertinent diagnostics before coming to that conclusion.
If you guess or take shortcuts and the ECM was/is not the problem and you replace it with a faulty unit you will have many more problems along with the original problem and not know where to look first.
 
#8 · (Edited)
NAJ:

Thanks:
I had an Uh Oh moment when I read your first comment about Cardone.
I'll check everything else before I suspect the Cardone ECM.

I just found this while searching for an alternative ECM:

Jim
 
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#10 ·
NAJ:

I had a problem starting the car and keeping it idling, but just found a broken hard line near the Baro solenoid to the MAP sensor, and an uncapped 4th hard line from the vacuum block.
Since the car used to start up right away and had no problems, I'm going to repair these first.

On another note:
You once mentioned a replacement p/n for the rollover valve on top of the gas tank.
Do you still have that number?
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
Well, put the old ecm back in. Now no power to any of the relays.
It is a cardone. It also looks as if they sent one for a manual transmission... Pretty sure I ordered one for an auto.
Will it work?
 
#15 ·
I only go up to 92 on wiring, however...
Your vehicle should have an ASD Relay and a Fuel Pump Relay.
The ASD relay and Fuel Pump Relay each have two power feeds.
1)ASD Relay
a)RD/WT Wire - Constant power from the battery through a fusible link.
This wire also feeds SBEC Cavity #3.
b)DB Wire - Switched Ignition Voltage from the Ignition Switch
2)Fuel Pump Relay
a)RD/WT Wire - Constant power from the battery through a fusible link.
b)DB Wire - Switched Ignition Voltage from the Ignition Switch

Using a 12 volt test lamp or digital multi-meter with the key on check for power at the RD/WT and DB wires at both relays.
Is power present?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I have power to the relays, but not the control circuit.
I jumped the asd and pump relays. No pump running noise.
I've taken the carpet out, going trace the whole circuit and bedline the floor.
 
#19 ·
You are not going to have power on the control circuit, that circuit is a ground.
Go back to post #3 and check for power at the + coil while cranking the engine.
 
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corelokt
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