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DRB II Help--Making the SCI Cable, Need Pinouts

22301 Views 78 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  reedfranklin
I recently just purchased a DRB II that was missing the cable to connect to the under hood connector. Miller Specialty Tools reports that the cable, CC2000, is discontinued. Rather than endlessly search for one, I'd much rather build one. I have an extra SCI cable from my Actron 9145 scanner that I can use to assist me in building this cable. All I need now is the pin-outs of cable end of the DRB II. Can anyone help?
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Excellent write-up, thanx!

Did you test to see if:

1. any of the spade blades connect to each other

2. any of the DIN pins connect to each other

3. if any of the pins connect to the casing of the DIN 8 cable?

Thanx ...

Ahh.. yes I did, back on Post #50 of this thread, is a chart of actual continuity checks I made from a real OEM engine cable.

At over #60 posts this thread is getting long.. so finding that stuff can be hard.. its practically buried by now.

But yeah the info is in this thread.

See I first got a DRB-II without an OEM cable.. so I started planning to make one from parts salvaged from the OTC line of parts and cables.. then I got super lucky and found one. That's what's delayed me finishing the original DIY Maker cable.
Thanx for the update.
Sounds like you're coming from the other side of the spectrum, and are well-suited to do this kind of work w/cars.
One guy I ran into on ebay said that one of the main keys for knowing how to properly diagnose a car is knowing what network it has. I still don't know what that means!
Will keep you and the others in here posted on my progress.
Thanx again ...
Nice. I never finished reading the #50 post and will do it soon.
Thanx for doing for me/us exactly what I wanted you to do w/your new cable!
I even wrote-up an email and tried to find your email on the internet to contact you asking for that info off your new cable. How about that for 'Providence'?
Much obliged ....
Nice read ... I can see you know s how to make learning this stuff fun!
I got the 212635 cable, and it arrived today.
So soon as I get a moment, I'm making it.
Your idea is pretty close to the one in my head.
Only I'm going to splice into this cable and/or lengthen it and re-work the wires.
Either way, it doesn't seem too big a deal, considering all the info you provided.
Turns-out that the OTC 212635 cable has only 3 leads connected to the blades/pins. The other 5 wires (of the 8) just exist in the sleeve, but connect to nothing. So, unless I can cut into these cast-plastic connectors to solder to the other terminals, this was a $30 waste. Also, the wires don't connect correctly btw the 8 pin DIN and 6-way Chrys connectors. Hmm! Foiled this time around. Looks like I need to spend some more $ to make one another way.

Also, I got my DRB II today, and it looks like it sat in an electrical shop for 1000 years, and the cartridge has flakes rattling around in it. I wonder if this thing even works. We shall see ....

That was my update at this point. More to follow after a while ...
Today I woke-up w/a simple solution to this cable dilemma:

Use a Male 8-pin DIN connector on the car.

In other words, just cut that worthless (and most-times corroded) 6-blade Chrysler connector off the car, and install an 8-pin DIN connector in its place. Then put a rubber end cover on it when not in use (= a cheap purchase item).

That way, the DIN connector plugs right into the DRB II, no hastles, no problems, and best of all NO NEED TO MAKE A CABLE!

How about that for a solution?
jwillis (or anybody else),

Re: #32 above:

Do you know which is the newest version of this OTC scanner?

1. OTC Monitor 4000E

2. OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced

3. OTC Enhanced Monitor

Thanx ... Chris
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jwillis (or anybody else),

Re: #32 above:

Do you know which is the newest version of this OTC scanner?

1. OTC Monitor 4000E

2. OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced

3. OTC Enhanced Monitor

Thanx ... Chris
Wow this kind of slipt under my radar, I was off on vacation, had a death in the family and got distracted by other threads and scanning manuals.

The OTC has had a long storied life.. that branch of the "tree".. would include the OTC2000, OTC4000, OTC4000E and now the DART or OTC6000

I have not heard of anything past the OTC6000 and since Chrysler distributed that as the D.A.R.T. and only the documentation provided with it called it the OTC6000 its kind of hard to see it referenced as "part of the family".

From what I could see they were mostly if not all based on the Motorola 68HC11 sixteeen bit computer with a 64KB memory mapped address space.

The cartridges (I believe) were all EPROM based and the connector essentially "plugged" the cartridge memory directly into the 68HC11 memory space.. so rather than like a floppy disk or hard drive, it was more like swapping the BIOS chip in an IBM PC computer each time a cartridge was pulled and re-inserted.

That is the operating system of the DRB or the OTC was essentially completely and totally replaced by changing cartridges and choosing a different cardtridge.

The 68HC11 is not made anymore, and Motorola sold the rights to it to Freescale Inc. a while ago. According to the DRBII manuals it ran at 4 MHz, so its pretty old technology. When I was a Freshman in College I recall it was old then, but held up as brilliant because it included two onboard serial ports in the CPU. It was a single chip computer with peripheral ports, no add-ons. That kept the circuit board simple, the cost for chips low, and the chance that something wouldn't work low. It also made repair easy, just swap out the chip.

The more I study it the simpler the DRB and OTC monitors appear to me.

The true "secret sauce" is in the cartridges.. and their code being based on the 68HC11 machine language means they should run in a software emulator without much difficulty.

The only problem being the cartridges are EPROM based and are vulnerable to being eroded/bit-rotted/erased by the earthly and cosmic background radiation that surrounds us everyday.

The last of the cartridges are rapidly approaching their predicted end of life.

I've been recently toying with the idea of running the cartridges through an "emulator" that uses FTDI usb to serial port adapters on a portable PC. But when I realized the EPROMs are aging fast.. I changed that to consider "backing them up" into S19 files.. so I have a backup to work from.

I really liked your idea of adapting your vehicle connector to the DRBII connector.. but I'm kind of a purist.. in that I prefer to not mod if I don't have to.

Sorry I didn't notice your predicament earlier.. the answer was in the pin-outs.. basically "not all of the pins" have to map. If I ever finish my cable design it will be more apparent what needs to be done.

I had to stop to remove the valve covers on the D250 engine.. and wasted a can of spray paint learning "how not to paint". I held the can too far from the valve covers and the paint turned into dry dust before it got to the covers.. and I found myself wiping it off later.

Gosh I'm so bad at car repair.. painting.
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What is the pin out for the RS232 (TA4FL Mini XLR connector).
I just got a OTC 4000 Enhanced and it did not come with a printer or terminal cable.
I hope to build one and connect to a PC/Laptop with RS232 port.
Not sure about the 4 pins(Tx, Rx, Gnd, ???)
What is the pin out for the RS232 (TA4FL Mini XLR connector).
I just got a OTC 4000 Enhanced and it did not come with a printer or terminal cable.
I hope to build one and connect to a PC/Laptop with RS232 port.
Not sure about the 4 pins(Tx, Rx, Gnd, ???)
The pinouts I used came from this website

jwhweb.com - TurboDodge Run Logger Home

There is a pretty good picture of both the sockets and the three wires that need to be connected between them.

In my case I used a USB connector with built-in electronics for converting singals at the TA4FL to the USB connector. Then plugged the finished connector into a computer at one end and the OTC4000 at the other end.

The computer automatically installed a device driver and gave it a COM port.

Making the cable was kind of difficult, the parts are really small, and I have smaller hands to begin with. They are rigid and hard to hold, and the USB to pigtail wires came in a thick outer jacket which was hard to get to go through the TA4FL jacket shell. In the end I had to use an X-Acto knife to whittle or rim the inside of the jacket shell, and scrap a bit of jacket down to make it narrow enough to fit in the jacket shell. I then used heatshrink tubing on the outside to form a tighter bond between the pigtail jacket and the TA4FL jacket shell.

I also had to do it "twice" and those TA4FL connectors are kind of expensive from Digikey.. but it works.. and works well.

In the end I broke down and got a nice Weller soldering station and heat gun to do all the work.. more professionally. I had always wanted a Weller.. but never could afford it or had a good reason. The second time around making this cable I had just had enough dealing with small parts and not having a proper temperature soldering iron.
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Thank you.
That picture tells the whole story.

Last night I also built an RS232 to SCI cable and plan to test MPScan today

On the subject of Weller, I have always liked and used their soldering irons
but the last one I bought was the first one I ever used with a temperature read out
and it only lasted a little more than a year
I will probably never buy one of those type again
I hear you about the Weller. They have since moved production to Mexico and I fear the quality control is not what it used to be. Only their $300+ workstation seem to still be made in Germany. I knew i would be taking my chances, and bought online.. I've since seen them for sale at Fry's.

Hako is probably the brand to have these days.. but those bright Neon Purple and Yellow colors put me off. The Weller I got has the digital readout .. and I had read they don't tend to have long lives.. but its kind of more a paper weight most of the time, a nostalgia thing.

Ironically I would think the Weller needs a surge protector considering the design of the power supply.. but most people don't put those on Soldering Irons.. they recall those silly Radio Shack pencil irons and figure plug it direct into the wall. Whats to break?

For the 1980's the Wellers were the bomb, just really cool.. but these days are a long ways from then.
I had a Weller from the 70s or maybe from before that I must have gotten 4th or 5th hand. Looked like it had been repaired a few times.
It lasted me another 10 years before the transformer finally stated melting and oozing.
That's when I bought a new one that only lasted about 1 year.

I haven't had time to make the OCT 4000 RS232 cable, but I have been playing with the RS232 to SCI cable and MPSCAN.
I keep getting this error "cant open/setup port" when trying to record.
but when I just run individual sensor diagnostics I get valid data, so my cable must be good.
Actually I'm not even sure which ECM I have, so that could be the problem.
I guess the sensor diags must be more versatile the the Display/Profile settings

I should probably start a new thread for this here or at turbo-mopar.com for more help.
Just read this thread.
Great info!
Well written!

I have a DRB II that I was using to diagnose my 1989 Shelby Dakota, has a bad idle circuit.

With this USB cable to DRB, Can I pull the code off the chip in my factory computer with out damaging it? I would like to burn a new chip and put it in a socket-ed computer that has a functioning idle controller .

I bought a replacement chip from Boost Button.com but it does not have the same controller number as the one in my shelby and my electric fans are on all the time and the tach does't work.

While messing around with the DRB I remember seeing the code as it was running.

Or can I use the cable that Rob at boost button sells to access and reburn my computers chip? SCI-USB Cable - BoostButton.com

I am just a wrench turner trying to get thru all this hi tech electrical stuff.

Any help would be appreated. This is my post asking for help. http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f21/1128313-smec-computer-info-repair.html
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I am back at trying to get some thing to work for me. I have a boost button SCi cip on a FTDITT234x-5V cable. Used the BB wiki to set up the cable. But did not work tried cable_setup [Turbonator Tuning Wiki] and manual_ftdi_setup [Turbonator Tuning Wiki] Also found this youtube
With no luck I am using a Toshiba NB505 net book. Could this be my problem? Looking for some help. I am wanting to pull the CAL's from some SEMC that I have.
awesome info, anyone have any DRB 2 equipment for sale?
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