[arieskcar]

89 Aries 2.2 TBI makes this sound cold after 3-5 mins goes away...

89 Daytona 2.5 T1 SBEC swapped. Just "Rebuilt" engine in the car with DNJ Pistons/Rings, Federal Rod Bearings, Apex Head Gasket. running 10w30 conventional first 50 miles changed just filter then changed oil and filter again at 75 miles. It makes this noise when warmed up. it's very low and sounds like other 2.2/2.5's but what is the sound?

Any ideas?
Are these sounds nothing major?

 

[NAJ]

Both are valvetrain noises, the TBI car is very loud and sounds like a lifter, the turbo car may be normal, hard to tell in a video.

VALVETRAIN NOISE DIAGNOSTICS

 

[Glhs60]

The 2.2 TBI sounds like piston wrist pin noise, especially if it lessens with heat.

Wrist pins tend to tap at a faster rate then a typical a valve train clatter.

A longer video at a slow idle could help as vid diagnosing can be tough.

Longer vids for both if possible with some slight RPM variations.

From what I could hear in the short 2.5 vid, it sounded O.K.

Thanks
Randy

 

[arieskcar]

The 2.2 TBI sounds like piston wrist pin noise, especially if it lessens with heat.

Wrist pins tend to tap at a faster rate then a typical a valve train clatter.

A longer video at a slow idle could help as vid diagnosing can be tough.

Longer vids for both if possible with some slight RPM variations.

From what I could hear in the short 2.5 vid, it sounded O.K.

Thanks
Randy

on the 2.2 TBI the noise vanishes once it gets warm low idle and the 2.5 T1 makes the same sound continuously.

 

[Glhs60]

Piston/wrist pin noise often diminishes or eliminates with heat.

Back when these cars were current I fixed a few clackers.

The wrist pins were loose in the piston causing the noise.

I had oversize wrist pins installed and eliminated the noise.

This used to be a common procedure in the good old days.

Back when parts were very expensive and labor was cheap.

Pistons were often refurbished as new ones were very costly.

Skirts were knurled and upper ring grooves machined for spacers.

Finally, over size wrist pins completed the refurbishment.

Now, Chinese pistons are cheap and local labor is high. !!

Thanks
Randy

 

[arieskcar]

Piston/wrist pin noise often diminishes or eliminates with heat.

Back when these cars were current I fixed a few clackers.

The wrist pins were loose in the piston causing the noise.

I had oversize wrist pins installed and eliminated the noise.

This used to be a common procedure in the good old days.

Back when parts were very expensive and labor was cheap.

Pistons were often refurbished as new ones were very costly.

Skirts were knurled and upper ring grooves machined for spacers.

Finally, over size wrist pins completed the refurbishment.

Now, Chinese pistons are cheap and local labor is high. !!

Thanks
Randy

From cold. Also my freon didn't leak out somehow....

 

[NAJ]

Not to throw you a curveball and I am not saying Randy is incorrect, he has Tons more experience with Engine R+R than I do, however...

I had an opposite experience with a wrist pin noise in a 72 Duster 225 Slant 6.
The noise appeared and never changed, was the same cold, hot, and under all load conditions, raced the car that way for 7 years (87-93) and it never got worse, it was just there.

A wrist pin noise will sound like a light metallic knocking noise coming from the lower end and it will not change if load is changed, the sound is not as "tinny" as a lifter/rocker but not as dull as a rod/main bearing.
Sometimes with lower end noises if you remove a plug wire with the engine running the pitch of the noise will change as the noisy cylinder is affected.
If you are going to do that I suggest you remove the wire with the engine off and be sure the wire is within 1/4" of ground so you do not damage any ignition components, or use a spark tester to provide the ground.

Use a stethoscope to determine if the noise is top end or bottom end or use a really long screwdriver with the handle being used as the listening end, just be aware that noises travel.

You are never going to know without diagnostics or teardown.
It is easier to remove the valve cover than tear down the engine.
I posted the "Valve Train Noise Diagnostics" in Post #2, remove the valve cover and follow them.

You may want to watch this...

 

[Glhs60]

"Time will tell the story" has been my experience with clacking TBI Engines.

Initially they clack when cold and quiet down as the Engine warms up.

Progressively they will take longer and longer to stop clacking.

Eventually they will clack all the time, even fully warmed up.

Luckily, the clacking doesn't indicate an Engine failure.

They typically clack away until the cows come home.

The wrist pins are a press fit in the connecting rod.

I've seen full floaters escape and ruin the block.

Each have their good and bad points.

(Full floating vs press fit)

Thanks
Randy

 

[arieskcar]

"Time will tell the story" has been my experience with clacking TBI Engines.

Initially they clack when cold and quiet down as the Engine warms up.

Progressively they will take longer and longer to stop clacking.

Eventually they will clack all the time, even fully warmed up.

Luckily, the clacking doesn't indicate an Engine failure.

They typically clack away until the cows come home.

The wrist pins are a press fit in the connecting rod.

I've seen full floaters escape and ruin the block.

Each have their good and bad points.

(Full floating vs press fit)

Thanks
Randy

What do you think from the 5 min vid I posted? wrist pin or top end? Should I pull the valve cover or not even bother?

 

[Glhs60]

I listened to it a couple of times and it has the characteristics of wrist pin/piston noise.

The piston pin boss in the piston wears allowing the pin to clack in the piston.

Typically a faster clack than a valve issue, it clacks at TDC and BDC.

That's why I asked you if it was clacking at a low Engine speed.

As the piston warms it expands and the clearance lessens.

Were only talking a couple of thousands of an inch.

As time goes on the noise lasts longer.

Eventually it never goes away.

That said, its only a few minutes to pull the valve cover.

Honestly, I'd like nothing better than to be proved wrong!!

Often I spend extra time double checking things just to verify.

Like the criminal in the Clint Eastwood movie, I just gots to know!!

Thanks
Randy

 

[Glhs60]

Good clicker video posted by another member with results.

Thanks
Randy

86' GLH-S: Any help with this clicking noise?

Noise popped up after a bit of a longer drive today (about an hour each way on the highway). When I started the car this AM idle was a bit high (1500 RPM or so) but I had just assumed it was because it was cold. Arrive at my destination and no clicking, but idle is still at 1500 rpm unless I let...

www.turbododge.com

 

[arieskcar]

Good clicker video posted by another member with results.

Thanks
Randy

86' GLH-S: Any help with this clicking noise?

Noise popped up after a bit of a longer drive today (about an hour each way on the highway). When I started the car this AM idle was a bit high (1500 RPM or so) but I had just assumed it was because it was cold. Arrive at my destination and no clicking, but idle is still at 1500 rpm unless I let...

www.turbododge.com

So it could be top end. have to pull the VC now...

 

[Glhs60]

That's why I posted this earlier:

"That said, its only a few minutes to pull the valve cover.

Honestly, I'd like nothing better than to be proved wrong!!

Often I spend extra time double checking things just to verify.

Like the criminal in the Clint Eastwood movie, "I just gots to know!!" "

Thanks
Randy

So it could be top end. have to pull the VC now...