I put a few more sets of injectors in and the results don't look good. About half are failing this way, some leak worse than others.

 

What pressure are you testing at?

 

This has been going on for many years, esp. on injectors that have been sitting. I've thrown out like 30+ injectors because of this. I blame ethanol and crappy manufacturing. Lots of the Siemen-Deka failures, but I've seen plenty of Bosch too.
Whenever I get any injectors cleaned and flowbenched, I first test them exactly how you are doing before sending them out. Even then, I send out extras if I have them, just in case. Once they have an external leak, they can't be repaired (per Bill Johnson @ Mr. Injector).

 

Fuel pressure is 43 lbs on my flow bench.

 

I had the same issue, two sets of Turbo injectors leaked at the body joints, I ended up getting new ones.

BTW, here I can get ethanol free premium very close by. I use it in all my small engines as some of those carburetors are obscenely expensive. So far, since it isn't on the road, Lebaron convertible has the same gas in it.

 

How many TD cars are out there with old injectors and have no clue that there is a ticking fire bomb in their cars?

 

Lol, I'm now thinking what to do with the two heads and 37 year old injectors in both...

 

Is anyone interested in having their injectors run through my flow bench for free? I'm in NJ.

 

Sounds like a good idea to have them tested, I have a couple of sets lying around I should probably test before installig on one of my cars. Can I DM you?

 

I have an 84' TBI Daytona single point Upright Bosch TBI Throttle Body Part #4275617 that had a Chrysler branded (with the Pentastar 4167043), injector in it from the factory. (Said injector had a factory flow rating of Low Impedence injector 71.8 lbs. /hr.), tested with heptane...remember though gas flows better.

And back in 96' I had it flow tested for curiosity sake to see if by simply upping the fuel pressure exactly what it would do as far as upping the volume of flow in lbs/hr. Below were the results after they serviced the injector, replaced inlet screen, tip, cleaned and flow tested it @ 40 PSI for $35.95
Then, the expensive testing ($80.00 for 8 addl. Flow tests), starting at 35 PSI at 5 psi increases up through 70 PSI. Results were in ml of heptane fluid. Gasoline ends up actually higher flow in actual use. Increases in Fuel Pressure in the actual car was accomplished by both changing the in tank pump to The V6/Turbo pump 4797887 purchased directly at Chry Dealer parts counter. And by adding a direct bolt in Crane Cams branded Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator-Ford MPI/EFI Part number 99471-1 (Remove the vacuum line nipple, add a Vaccuum cap to the throttle body vac port, as the regulator has a manual adjusting screw in the port nipple on it). You can not easily adjust that scew to achieve upwards of 70-75 psi of fuel system pressure to the throttle body top hat and injector before returning excess fuel to the tank, when it is installed on the throttle body, but with a small slot shorty screw driver it is easily done. Then, after static pressure is reached cap the port on the TB.

The cleaned and rebuilt injector was
Tested by EPI Performance in Whittier, CA (April 1996).

PSI. Auto test
=35. 55.0 ml
=40. 60.0 ml
=45. 63.0 ml
=50. 66.0 ml
=55. 67.0 ml
=60. 71.0 ml (Up to this point the Stock injector showed a reliable increase just by raising the fuel pressure from 35 PSI incoming to 60 PSI of a 29.22 Percent increase in output flow rate).
=65. 71.5 ml
=70. 71.5 ml (*over 60 PSI-No appreciable increase in fuel injector performance.

The 30 percent increase made an appreciable horsepower difference when you only have 1 injector to rely on.
I later purchased another 74 lbs/hr MSD Injector Part number 2014 2 ohm (4/1A)(that 1 injector was expensive in 1996), that was slightly taller 1/8", installed a custom cut rubber gasket between the TB and mounting hat to just make up the difference, and had it also tested, and it flowed another 10 percent better throughout the same test ranges and achieved a total of very near 40 percent more fuel at 70 psi inlet pressure in actual full throttle usage, w/ an Auto Meter liquid filled gauge outside the windshield and on my face.

Many years later (26 now), engine is being upgraded from the former factory unchanged condition to forged Ross class legal Stock Elim. Repl pistons, a full race valve job, PT lifters w/shims, much increased and dialed in 6 degrees adv. cam, fully blueprinted and balanced, overbored .025, Great Speed Pro Ringsets, gas ring ports, and I did not want to risk using an older injector without servicing and testing again.

So I went looking again. And found that the price of injectors were rock bottom to match. $8.00 each w/free shipping for Herko injectors on e-bay...bought 1 and had it tested, same place, same 35-80 PSI. And the results were better than my stock and my MSD. A 41 percent increase up to 80 psi.

Just bought 4 Herko branded injectors (brand new in box) delivered w/tax to my door for $33.09.

So, if yours are leaking and your turbo models take 4 times as many as my stupid slow ride TBI does, replace them today, as they are dirt cheap, and are now throw aways since it costs more to service them than to replace them new.

You cannot even buy the rebuild kits each for the cost of brand new injectors at 8 bucks each w/delivery. Buy 4 and it drops to $7.30 each.

And if they are leaking at the contacts, that is a timebomb, so park it until they come in.

 

Forgot to add: Herko Automotive Group in Miami, FL is the seller, but the manufacturer is AC Delco, and Herko just bought out a lot of dealer shelf inventory on closing automotive parts counters during the recent covid years, ergo the very low prices. Look your original number up on their crossover and application charts by year, make, model, engine and trim for your particular application.

The part number is not imprinted on the plastic top edge, but is dot matrix imprinted boldly in yellow on the main injector body. (Much larger than those original tiny lil' numbers that are harder to see).

Just received my new 4 today and they were a perfect match to my stock factory 1, except they flow a bit better at each fuel pressure psi level up to 70-80.

 

I think I need to replace my 35 year old fuel injectors too. Car starts up fine on cold start but after warm it seems to flood and only start with gas pedal all the way down. Maybe leaking injectors. Also I do smell a hint of gas around the fuel rail. Hoses are new all connections are good but somwhere on the fuel rail I smell a hint of gasoline sometimes. I wish to get new injectors from Herko but can't find it for my 87 Daytona ShelbyZ. What part number did you get?

 

Gircng is using a single point injector, not a multi-point or MPFI. I recently replaced injectors off a 86 GLHS Omni which uses 33.25 lbs injectors. I bought Standard Motor products SMP FJ53. They have RIN-813 dot matrix printed on the injector. They were a perfect replacement. Shop around you should find these for around $40-45 each. You can also Google Mopar 5277895 They are just a smidge higher at 34lbs. I think I paid slightly less than $40 for mine shipped about 6 months ago.
Here is an interchange for the 5277895 injector
INTERCHANGE:

• ACDelco: 89053950
• BWD: 57224
• Chrysler: 5277895
• GB: 812-11121
• VAICO: V40-0549
• Aus Injection: MP-10597
• Sorensen: 800-1047N
• Bostech: MP1019
• Kem: 142-609
• Airtex: 4G1135
• Duralast: M129
• Tomco: 15596
• Delphi: FJ10089
• Echlin: 2-18041
• Bosch: 0280150813

 

Thank you DdblTrbl I too found some leaking injectors.
Almost everything on my car is original 35+ year old including the fuel injection system. I put in a new head gasket earlier this year and did not think of the fuel injectors while I had everything apart. When started driving, I noticed a faint fuel smell around the top of the engine near the fuel rail every time after driving the car. At about 100 miles the fresh oil got contaminated with gasoline and smelled like gas. Also had hard start on warm engine like it was flooding. So , I knew something was leaking either at the injector pintle into the intake manifold or outside of the injector body.
After seeing your post I decided to inspect my injectors since it is all 35 years old. After removal and careful inspection it was leaking both ways outside the injector and inside at the pintle.

I found 3 out of the 4 Mopar 5277895 original injectors leaking from the top body joints seam, similar location as in your pictures. Not sure if my pictures show clearly but there is a trace of faded paint and rust coming down from the top seam of the injectors. Cylinder #1 injector did not have that trace.
My original injectors had two problems: 1) leak into the engine at the nipple (making for a rough idle, hard restart when engine hot and contaminating the oil, and 2) leak on top outside seam of the injector on a hot engine seems like a fire hazard.

Note to others when buying a new injector: there are a lot of NOS injectors out there to avoid, but the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FJ53 for Turbo II engines seem to be the best new stock in 2023.

The Original Bosch 0280160/Mopar 4306015 fuel pressure regulator I took off possibly had an old trace of fuel leak at one of the nipples, not sure if it could be a fuel leak so I replaced that too.

After driving yesterday in 90 degrees hot weather, the car idles better, starts up in the first second, on a cold or hot start, and the oil does not seem to be contaminated with a gas smell after 20 miles.
A big THANK YOU DdblTrbl for the tip about the injectors, probably saved me and my son from a fire hazard.

 

Thank you DdblTrbl I too found some leaking injectors.
Almost everything on my car is original 35+ year old including the fuel injection system. I put in a new head gasket earlier this year and did not think of the fuel injectors while I had everything apart. When started driving, I noticed a faint fuel smell around the top of the engine near the fuel rail every time after driving the car. At about 100 miles the fresh oil also got contaminated with gasoline and smelled like gas. Also had hard start on warm engine like it was flooding.
After seeing your post I decided to inspect my injectors since it is all 35 years old.

I found 3 out of the 4 Mopar 5277895 original injectors leaking from the top body joints seam, similar location as in your pictures. Not sure if my pictures show clearly but there is a trace of faded paint and rust coming down from the top seam of the injectors. Cylinder #1 injector did not have that trace.
My original injectors had two problems: 1) leak into the engine at the nipple (making for a rough idle, hard restart when engine hot and contaminating the oil, and 2) leak on top outside seam of the injector on a hot engine seems like a fire hazard.
View attachment 286592

Note to others when buying a new injector: there are a lot of NOS injectors out there to avoid, but the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FJ53 for Turbo II engines seem to be the best new stock in 2023.

The Original Bosch 0280160/Mopar 4306015 fuel pressure regulator I took off possibly had an old trace of fuel leak at one of the nipples, not sure if it could be a fuel leak so I replaced that too.
View attachment 286591

After driving yesterday in 90 degrees hot weather, the car idles better, starts up in the first second, on a cold or hot start, and the oil does not seem to be contaminated with a gas smell after 20 miles.
A big THANK YOU DdblTrbl for the tip about the injectors, probably saved me and my son from a fire hazard.

I tested two sets of TII injectors on mine the set that was the same as yours leaked. The other style of TII injector was fine and I ran them through the ultrasonic cleaner and tested again doing the nozzle blast with carb cleaner.

 

What fuel injector brand & part number do you recommend ? Also which regulator part number ? Car is a 1989 Dodge Lancer 2.5 T1. Thanks.

 

I checked on Rock Auto here, and your Lancer takes the same fuel injectors as my T2. I think you have limited choices. I would not get a re-manufactured injector as those old design injectors leak from the top as I and others have discovered.
I got the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FJ53 injectors from Rock Auto and they were all new part manufactured in the past year. They looked like this:

The ones I got the body seems to be made of stainless steel, with the top part similar as the Bosch OE injector but the nipple end design was different and made of metal not plastic. This new injector seems to be a better design than my old 35 year old original injectors. Or you can use the list in the upper part of this post where there is a list of all the injectors but most are not available anymore.

As for the fuel pressure regulator I don't know which one you need. My Daytona-ShelbyZ T2's is different than your Lancer. I got one on Ebay that was new old stock original equipment Bosch/Mopar brand that was in a 30 year old box and never had been used. Made sure I bought it from a reliable Ebay vendor that had a 99%+ record and I could return it if it leaked. I checked the vacuum and pressure, and it was good.

 

If anyone is interested in characterizing their injectors on my injector test bench, my offer still stands. The testing not only provides flow info, but also provides injector delay response and injector current over time analysis. I will do it for free, but you provide shipping label for return of injectors. The results are in a CSV form. You can use the CSV data as is or chart it in your favorite chart app (mine is excel). I'll prob put the results up on this page.

Here are some sample tests I've done. This chart one is 4 different injectors including a stock Turbo Dodge. You can see the TD injector flows earlier than the high impedence ones that flow more.

This is the current chart for a high impedence 1000cc injector. You can see the effect of impedence over time and also the knee where the pintle begins to move. Each line is 25 microseconds of time

 

That is fantastic.. Really great data. Would certainly like to see what the stock injectors look like in comparison to some of the igher flow injectors.