First...
1)I assume you had the battery charged and tested, a faulty battery can create havoc on a charging system.
2)Normal charging voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running is about 13.7 volts.
If you are only reading static battery voltage (12.6 volts on a fully charged battery) then you have a "not charging" issue.
3)If that is the case you need to verify you have 12 volts at the + battery feed at the alternator and that you have 12 volts on both field terminals with the key on/engine off.

If you do not have power at any of those locations, post back.

4)If all of those power feeds check OK verify the alternator is properly grounded.
a)Connect a 12 volt test lamp to the + battery terminal and touch the test lamp to the alternator case, if the lamp illuminates you are grounded.
5)If steps 3 and 4 check OK start the car and verify the field control terminal at the alternator is being pulsed.
a)Connect a 12 volt test lamp to the - battery terminal and with the engine running probe the field control wire/terminal.
The test lamp should flash/flicker on/off constantly.
b)Does it? If yes then the Power Module is controlling the field circuit, if it does not there is an issue in the field control circuit.
Post Back.

I am sending you a PM with wiring and diagnostic info.

 

Thanks for info and privat message. Im reading and reading schemes and trying to understand. This is a hard one for me - already spent 4 days on this. Im trying to do the electric checkin, buts a bit hard for me, im not an expert. At least i think im sure i have main pluss and ground in order - they are connected. So it seems to be something from the field(smaller dark green) into the power module. However the connectors are ok.
I have a spare electric wiring set up in mye livingroom (to my wifes disgrace) , im comparing things with. Perhaps i have to make a youtube video and show you, its really hard to explain. It might be somthing has melted, and gives to many reactions on the 10 pin connector.
BTW - is the power module(in engine room) grounded? -by the holder screws?

 

Strange things are happening.
I took away the whole wiring from alternator to battery, - and put in a spare set-up i had from my other car. Nothing happened -still 12.6 volt.

In desperation i startet checking fuses again - took them all out and- in again. Then i noticed that the relay in the middle of the three, ign-time-relay, was hot, so i put in another one.
Then i did a check on charging - now 14.83????

 

I will be back home on Monday and will be able to give you better answers then.
If anything changes let me know.

 

Latest - lost charging again - seemed strang i had 14 - then 15 volt - for a long time.
Changed the batteri - and messed something up again.

 

That puts you back to checking power and ground at the alternator.
I will not be back home until Monday where I can get on my laptop and give you more info.
In the meantime do you own a 12 volt test lamp.
You can get an inexpensive test lamp at AutoZone, Harbor Freight, Walmart,etc.

6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead

Amazing deals on this 6/12V Circuit Tester With 5Ft Lead at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

3)You need to verify you have 12 volts at the + battery feed at the alternator and that you have 12 volts on both field terminals with the key on/engine off.

If you do not have power at any of those locations, post back.

4)If all of those power feeds check OK verify the alternator is properly grounded.
a)Connect a 12 volt test lamp to the + battery terminal and touch the test lamp to the alternator case, if the lamp illuminates you are grounded.
5)If steps 3 and 4 check OK start the car and verify the field control terminal at the alternator is being pulsed.
a)Connect a 12 volt test lamp to the - battery terminal and with the engine running probe the field control wire/terminal.
The test lamp should flash/flicker on/off constantly.
b)Does it? If yes then the Power Module is controlling the field circuit, if it does not there is an issue in the field control circuit.

 

Thank you all - and to NAJ -im sorry for late answer - i had to work fast and did this job after all your advise - i never found the problem - i took this from Volt regulator from mye Dodge 024 - and i cut the two field lines to Power module and fuse-box - I works!

 

Discussion Starter • #9 • a moment ago

Thank you all - and to NAJ -im sorry for late answer - i had to work fast and did this job after all your advise - i never found the problem - i took this from Volt regulator from mye Dodge 024 - and i cut the two field lines to Power module and fuse-box - I works!
I was a nightmare - i think i spent 40 hours om electrical searching and trying different alternators. I think perhaps both my powemodul had a failure. Cause every wiring seemed correct. I probably will never find out.

 

Glad to hear you are up and running/charging properly.
It is common for the internal voltage regulator to fail in the PM and the external voltage regulator install is the correct fix.