[shadow t2]

I spoke with the owner of the machine shop I work at today, he ok'd us making the spacers if anyone is interested. Usually aluminum is more expensive, especially in tube. I suggest hot roll A36, would be cheaper but not as light. I need to know how many are interested, what mat'l we can agree on, and some exact dimensions, not guestimates. We can also make spacers for the diff cover, so it will clear the carrier, you would need longer bolts for the cover too. I just need to know how thick to make diff spacer to clear the diff. I'll have a quote for the ring gear spacer in 6061, & A36, as well as the diff cover spacer probably in alum, but I need the dimensions; all the ring gear spacer dimensions & how thick to make the diff cover spacer to clear. Let me know.

 

[shadow t2]

Ok so noone wants a diff spacer or diff cover spacer to set up an OBX for cheaper than 80-90 bucks? I don't know where this $250.00 in programming is coming from, I can do the program for both the lathe & mill in 10 minutes, & set them both up with tooling, plus we don't have to have a huge quantity, 10-12 is fine, & if more are needed later we'll do more later. sheesh

 

[shadow t2]

Seriously, the cover on the 413 can be bent by hand, and they are only held on with 20lb/ft & have slop in the holes. I've been out for a minute, but bs called & left a message. There is no difference in bolting on a ".5 solid aluminum spacer to the DIFF COVER & relying on an aluminum "1.165 turned & bored spacer for the ring gear which sees WAY more stress than the DIFF COVER. I feel for you if you're relying on the diff cover to keep the carrier bearings from tweaking. If it's a bobble strut mount you want, that can also be made. I'm just offering an inexpensive alternative to the obvious problem. All of my machines are MAZAK, with conversational programming. We also run a full metal fab shop, welding, etc. Looks like the aluminum (NOT SUGGESTED) diff spacers can be made for around $60 each, the A36 steel spacers will run around $55 each. The diff cover spacer will run $35-$40. If a full on diff cover with a bobble mount is what is needed, that can be made too, but it won't be nearly as cheap. The spacers can be made in no time, & the larger the quantity, the lower the price, this was bid @24 pcs. Like I said, let me know.

 

[shadow t2]

I just want one!!!! Who is going to make one???? Steel should be safer???

I WILL MAKE THEM. I am making 24 for now, out of A36 steel, I would just like to know if anyone is interested in the diff cover spacer out of 6061 aluminum. It will be $90-$95 for the pair, around $55 for the ring gear spacer only. I need a head count. Thanks. I'll post some pics when they're done. I also need to know how far the diff cover needs to be shimmed to clear. ".5?

 

[shadow t2]

Exactly the diff cover serves no purpose for strength it is merely a cover.The only strength concern I have with doing this is the clearancing inside the case.To make the bolts clear you have to remove quite a bit of material and it makes it very thin,Im sure its not going to effect it much as most of the stress is in the bearing areas and they're pretty beefed up.Ive got mine just about finished im just waiting on shims to set the preload it had to be shimmed 65 thou more than the stock diff to get preload correct.

Has anyone tried button head allen bolts, I think they may clear. Sorry, I don't have an OBX to check myself, just throwing out ideas.

 

[shadow t2]

Ok I will see what my shop can get the button head allen bolts for, we usually get a little better deal on them.

 

[shadow t2]

You should start your own thread.

Turboking was kind enough to offer services and not ask too much for it.
He is honest and does it to push the sport forward.

I would rather have aluminum vs. steel.

Ok I'm not making a penny on them, just trying to help out but sounds like maybe I misunderstood the thread & you guys already have it figured out, so my apologies, I'm out.

 

[shadow t2]

Ok then I'm back. Our shop has 8 CNC MAZAK mills (mahining centers), & 6 CNC MAZAK lathes. We can program parts like this in NO time & we're a job shop used to running small qtys. I don't even have an OBX yet, so I'm doing this just to try to help out those in need. I run a 4 axis cnc MAZAK mill, program it myself, along with a MAZAK lathe. I'm offering these parts to be made with no markup on my part, & I'm offering the discount my shop gets on fasteners as well as anything else I can get thru the company. I have several stock carrier housings/ring gears to get the dimensions from. Last I heard the spacer needed to be "1.165 thick, correct? I'll check monday about the bolts in button head allen. I was thinking to make the diff cover spacer from 6061 alum solid, with a matching bolt pattern to the cover, & a cutout to clear the carrier/ring gear, then the cover bolts thru it to the case of the tranny. I may even be able to mock up a fabbed cover with the bobble mount, etc., but no promises.

 

[shadow t2]

Yeah, thanks

That print helps a little, I will mic my own dimensions as well before I cut on it. That print doesn't show the counterbore that(the ring gear) presses on to the shoulder of the OBX, the one with the angled face, but i'm thinking its (the shoulder of the OBX)the same dia as the stocker. Can someone check how deep the "pressed" area (land) is from the angle to the square shoulder so i'll know how deep to make the counterbore? I was thinking I'd go about ".060 deeper than the measurement, in case there are variations in the OBX's, then I will swing a beefy radius to strengthen it there. So only "1/4 spacer thickness on the diff cover? How about "3/8?

 

[shadow t2]

aha!! counterbore. That's what it's called.

"shadow t2 one dimension not given is that the the larger inner diameter (counterbore) on the bottom end needs to be at least 1/2" deep to clear the step in the OBX. Can someone provide the angle of the taper??? Or can he just make it 3/4" deep and not worry?"

The flange on the obx there is 3/4" then the step 1/2" and then the angle

Should I ship you my obx???? I can't use it till you make the spacer.

I could guarantee it to be DEAD NUTS if you shipped it, but no it's not necessary. I'll take the c-bore to full diameter .63 deep, then a radius in the fillet (corner) then a 60^ shoulder. I'll try like crazy to get you one this week, I'll just tell them lives are at stake or something.:thumb:

 

[shadow t2]

Counter sink and use flat head cap screws might be easier.
The only issue I would have is flat head/ button head screws use a smaller hex wrench, might be harder to torque to specs. I don't know what the torque specs are.

You would have to counterbore/countersink the OBX, or Quaife, since the bolt head tightens on it, not the spacer. Bolt goes thru OBX first, then thru spacer, then threads into ring gear. Moose, I'll give you all the dimensions of the run I'm makimg for future reference, when I'm done.

 

[shadow t2]

It's coming, my boss bought 2 new machines a few days ago, so we're playin catch up. I have a print drawn up, mat'l is sittin on a pallet, gonna try to push it through tomorrow. Sorry for the delay i've contemplated bustin out a few on the manual if the cnc's don't free up soon. I'll be making some of the diff cover spacers too, so PM me if you want one.

 

[shadow t2]

How big are the differential spacers? I know on the Neon there isn't a lot of room between the case and the K-member.

I was thinkin 3/8"(.375) thick on the diff cover spacer. Will that clear the ring gear & K-member? I can also make the ring gear spacer like the pics dbl trbl posted with dual bolt patterns so the stock bolts can be used, only twice as many req'd. Might save some $$ on bolts.

 

[shadow t2]

Ok, so we've decided on the dual bolt pattern with tapped holes on one set, drilled & counterbored on the other set. I'll make sure to counterbore them so the stock bolts will fit. You will need 2 sets of stock bolts, however, total of 24 bolts. The diff cover spacer will be made from 1/4" thick 6061 alum, unless there are objections. Let me know.


Coy

 

[shadow t2]

24 bolts can be had in a junk yard so it could save $55, but how much more does the machining cost?

I finished up a couple of them, machine time is more, but It's still going to be $60.00 for the ring gear spacer, buyer pays shipping, wish I had a camera for pics. They should all be ready to ship by monday 3-26, i'll keep you posted.

 

[shadow t2]

I must apologize I have a family emergency to attend to for a few days so I haven't finished the mill work on the ring gear spacers. I haven't made a diff cover spacer, but that's next. I had to make a few changes in order to fit the stock bolts on the dual bolt pattern. 1) I had to make the counterbore .69 dia instead of .710 dia. this will require the stock bolt heads to be ground down a little (take approx. .02 off the dia. of the flange). 2) If you want I can grind them down for you, I have maybe 4 spare sets of bolts. Send me a set of bolts & I'll send you some already ground down. I had to make the counterbore smaller because it was VERY thin on the od of the spacer & it was trying to break thru... bad. I just chuck them up in a dewalt & grind the head flange down on a bench grinder, takes like 5 minutes. I will be away from the forum for a few days & I sent one to looneytuner to check out & maybe take some pics. It has the ground down bolts with it so you can see what I'm talkin bout. You will probably need a thin wall 13mm socket too. I will get back on this ASAP, sorry again.

Coy

 

[shadow t2]

Also my zip code is 74037 if you want to figure shipping & I do accept paypal.

Coy

 

[shadow t2]

I suggest taking a spare socket & grinding it down to a thinwall. The bolt size is 10mm x 1.0, 10 mm is the dia of the bolt (.3938) & the x 1.0 is the pitch of the thread (.03938). You'll probably have way better luck shopping for a thinwall socket or grinding one down than you will finding these bolts for a reasonable price. You should only have to remove about .02-.03 off the od of the socket for it to fit. Hello bench grinder.

 

[shadow t2]

I could take the counterbore bigger but the holes will break out. Every other hole is a tapped hole & strength will be an issue. How much of an issue is debatable & a roll of the dice. Point being a thin wall is much stronger than no wall. I could just drill the rest of them for long bolts thru it, I have like 16 left with no mill work on them. I wouldn't put one on my car with the c-bores breaking thru, that's hack & begging for failure IMHO, but if you want them taken bigger I can do that too. Honestly, I can make these custom for whatever you prefer so if you want the big c-bores to fit stock bolts & a standard socket, or make it with smaller c-bores & ground down stock bolts & a ground down socket, or with one set of holes for longer bolts. The problem is that the lathe work is done & the prints & info i had stated nothing about leaving the OD big for the c-bores. PM me as to what you prefer.

Coy

 

[shadow t2]

Ok, so if I were to send my spacer back out to have 12 more holes drilled and tapped and had the existing holes counter sunk and ran the 24 stock bolts I won't have to grind the case down at all? I've already got 23 stock bolts, I've lost one but can easily get another one.

And how much do your spacers cost if I don't feel like sending mine back out?

The spacers are $60.00 each. If anyone wants one, PM me. I am finishing the mill work on them this weekend. So far there are 3 sold to DBLTRBL, 2 sold to looneytuner. There are limited qtys for now, like 11 or so left. Next up are the diff cover spacers.