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obx spacers

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16K views 182 replies 23 participants last post by  DblTrbl  
#32 ·
The Pope said:
actually selling on a Neon list would soke up the 80 pretty fast. You could contact the people pushing the OBX and they may want to buy that many at one time just to sell more OBXs. Doing a few yourself you'll do well if you can get some scrap at first.
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Actaully it wouldn't sell that fast on a Neon board for the sole fact that 99.9% of people on Neon boards drive manuals or swap out their automatics for manuals very fast. So, the spacer becomes useless for people on Neon boards.

The few of us however on Neon boards who do have automatics would be eager to get hold of a spacer. However, its not going to soak up the cost as fast as you'd imagine.
 
#76 ·
shadow t2 said:
That print helps a little, I will mic my own dimensions as well before I cut on it. That print doesn't show the counterbore that(the ring gear) presses on to the shoulder of the OBX, the one with the angled face, but i'm thinking its (the shoulder of the OBX)the same dia as the stocker. Can someone check how deep the "pressed" area (land) is from the angle to the square shoulder so i'll know how deep to make the counterbore? I was thinking I'd go about ".060 deeper than the measurement, in case there are variations in the OBX's, then I will swing a beefy radius to strengthen it there. So only "1/4 spacer thickness on the diff cover? How about "3/8?
Click to expand...
That was one part I didn't measure for. I wrote that print up when I built my spacer for my Quaife. I figured the top of the Quaife where it angles up wards would be different than the OBX so I didn't include that measurement because I discovered it; well, more or less realized it did that after the spacer was made and when it was milled again to accomidate the angle of the top of the Quaife it wasn't measured. We just milled enough material till the spacer sat flush on the top of the Quaife. We didn't take that much material off though.

Come spring time I'll be taking my diff out to put different bolts ont eh ring gear I could measure it then.

If some one could measure it I could add it to the print for future reference.
 
#80 ·
shadow t2 said:
You would have to counterbore/countersink the OBX, or Quaife, since the bolt head tightens on it, not the spacer. Bolt goes thru OBX first, then thru spacer, then threads into ring gear. Moose, I'll give you all the dimensions of the run I'm makimg for future reference, when I'm done.
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Cool, I'd appreciate it. Not taking that last measurement was one I kind of regretted. But I was in such a hurry to get my own car back on the road that I forgot.
 
#93 ·
Are you alternating the way they are threaded in? I'm confused.

Are the bolts going like this?

===> | | <===

Where the arrow on the left is the bolt going into the ring gear side and the arrow on the right going in on the diff side?

So then you'd have 6 bolts holding the spacer to the ring gear and 6 bolts holding the spacer and diff onto the differential?

Either way, its a good idea although I'm not completely sure of how it works, the pics don'e show that part. It is a nice spacer though.

I was under the impression that the bolts had to go all the way through the ring gear.
 
#106 ·
JB88Zcar said:
The consensus on the measurement seems to be 1.165 for the thickness and the OBX spacer does not need the taper on the bottom? Anyone know a good source of stock bolts besides the dealer?
Click to expand...
My spacer was made to 1.2187" - 1.2188". So, I'd say more like 1 7/32".

And I'm not sure but I still think the OBX needs some sort of a taper on the bottom. It may not be as much as the Quaife's taper but it'll still need one.

http://www.myneonspeed.com/gallery1/albums/album91/Quaife_Spacer_Dimensions4a1.jpg

Thats the print I made after I had mine built, and all measurements were from my spacer. I also know that one other person has used my print to have their spacer made as well.
 
#135 ·
Also, when you are grinding the case out take care on how far you cut into the case, its not very think and you can easily punch through it. I did that on my first case, luckily they were small enough I was able to repair them with JB Weld. :)

Looney, do you have a picture of where exactly you measured, I'm about to start grinding out my second case for my Quaiffe and am having a tough time visuallizing which direction you are looking at it from.

Now, I'm contemplating, do I send my spacer out to have 12 more holes drilled and have the 12 existing holes counter sunk or do I just buy a new spacer. Then the other problem I'm going to have is removing the ring gear fromt eh diff because I used red thread locker on it. But since my existing bolts aren't hardened I can just cut the heads off and pull the whole thing apart and use another ring gear I have. I've already got 24 stock bolts.
 
#142 ·
looney, it was a die grinder and I couldn't hear over the sound of the grinder and the compressor. lol

As for welding behind it thats what I did. But I used JB weld. The problem too is you don't have a lot of space between the TC and the bellhousing to put anythign behind it. I used the JB Weld because it stayed soft for a bit and I was able to groove it where the TC rides.

David, I will but I was planning on sending mine back out for remachining. Unless you want to buy me the double bolted spacer and we'll trade straight up? ;)
 
#149 ·
Ok, so if I were to send my spacer back out to have 12 more holes drilled and tapped and had the existing holes counter sunk and ran the 24 stock bolts I won't have to grind the case down at all? I've already got 23 stock bolts, I've lost one but can easily get another one.

And how much do your spacers cost if I don't feel like sending mine back out?
 
#151 ·
I don't quite understand what you mean by, "If you have to take the bolts off you already have a serious problem."

As of now my Quaife is in the transmission that is in my car now. When my hybrid is done I will be putting it in that. Right now I'm using grade 8.8 bolts that have been ground down to clear the case. I'd be taking them out to put the stock bolts in after remachining my spacer.

And I still don't understand, are you saying that I've still got to grind my case even if I use the OEM bolts to mount the spacer and ring gear to the diff?
 
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