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obx spacers

16K views 182 replies 23 participants last post by  DblTrbl  
Re diff cover

Good idea. I just took a look (that rhymes?!?!?!) ;) I'm a piano technician, and I can make that with metal cutting blade on my bandsaw and Northern Hydraulics welding rods. Flat plate (double thickness at edges) Round tube cut for ring gear and spacer. and tapered round tube down to plate. Bobble strut bracket welded where you want.
After reading this discussion, I realize that I can make the spacer with no machine shop. I have set of center punches for dead center location of holes. Small lead drill and then final drill size. (Drill press has compressed air cooling)
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
All I need a machine shop for is sufacing both sides of ring spacer and check balance????

1/4" plate for cover good???
 
I'm a babe in the woods on this.

I have the atx and obx and am ready for the spacer..and ? the cover.

Quoting Kedavis in previous thread.
"Yeah I got some 12.9 grade socket head cap screws from maryland metrics,the same bolts they use to bolt the quaife and obx together with."

Are these bolts the reason you had to add clearance inside the case???? If hex head 12.9 were used, would you still have to add clearance??? IF they are available. BTW do you have the part number and supplier handy
If we have to add the clearance, wouldn't a reinforcing cover rather than a cover spacer be advantageous. I pm'd shadow t2 about this since he bowed out of this thread.

turboking is it ok for shadow t2 to rejoin this thread??? He is doing a run of OBX spacers in steel. He didn't want to step on toes. The reinforced cover is not hard yet.
 
kedavis THANK YOU

shadow t2 one dimension not given is that the the larger inner diameter on the bottom end needs to be at least 1/2" deep to clear the step in the OBX. Can someone provide the angle of the taper??? Or can he just make it 3/4" deep and not worry?

My OBX also rattles. So I suppose I have to take it apart and set the preload on those bearings????:confused:
 
aha!! counterbore. That's what it's called.

"shadow t2 one dimension not given is that the the larger inner diameter (counterbore) on the bottom end needs to be at least 1/2" deep to clear the step in the OBX. Can someone provide the angle of the taper??? Or can he just make it 3/4" deep and not worry?"

The flange on the obx there is 3/4" then the step 1/2" and then the angle

Should I ship you my obx???? I can't use it till you make the spacer. ;)
 
I have been working on this car for two years. A week or two won't matter. I'm just happy somebody is going to make a run of these parts.

BTW I'm using a 404 transmission case so the cover spacer idea may be totally different for me. I really can fab that on my own.

"I don't think the bolt heads are a problem on the 404???? When I get it assembled, I will post if this is true.
Quote from Kedavis
I will tell you what would help with the clearance issue would be to counterbore the bolt holes enough so that the head of the socket head cap screw is flush with the spacer.This would make the clearancing a breeze.No need to over engineer this piece as long as its tight it will work fine its already been tested by some very high horsepower cars."
The radius would have to be in the obx flange and go right through.
__________________
 
For dummy's like me

I don't know squat about transmissions. I looked at the bearing race in the extensions,,,,,,thought about checking preload and wondered how to remove the race if it's alread pressed in and you need to add shims. The answer is to heat the extension housing to about 400 degrees and it falls out.:)
 
Just got the first one. Almost had a heart attack for me and migraine for Shado t2. Then I realized the OBX is warm and the spacer is cold. Should fit fine when both are same temp. It's just a little too tight when the spacer is 40 degrees. If not I will put the obx in freezer for an hour. I going to find some cap head bolts now.
 
It's good to go. There was a burr on the edge. Just filed it off. The obx end can be pulled down with the bolts. The ring gear end drops right on but NO play or slop.
Tried all my mechanics thinwalls and they are too thick. It needs cap head bolts. They would be 10x1.0x 25 in 12.9 grade.