It just might but for the hassel, should just put on a new one. Do it right the first time, no prob's later. Plus, it's only going to get bigger and it would take you like, 20 minutes.

 

I registered only to reply to this ...silly comment from 2006. How do you estimate it takes ONLY 20 minutes to replace a CV boot. You must be an alien with supernatural skills or perhaps you are Superman himself! Some people are UNBELIEVABLE !!!

 

I agree. Replace that baby. The boot kits are just a headache.

 

Well, I spent the weekend replacing axles... bought a brand new one that exploded both inner and outer joints, then put this used one on and noticed the crack after the fact. Gets old swapping axles. I've been messing with these cars since 2001 and have never had axle problems like these.

 

Clean off the area with a clean rag and brake cleaner. Put some RTV on it and let it dry, then put another coat on, spread it out over an inch or so. If I damage my boots-small hole, thats all I do and as long as the area is clean, works like a champ.

 

Clean off the area with a clean rag and brake cleaner. Put some RTV on it and let it dry, then put another coat on, spread it out over an inch or so. If I damage my boots-small hole, thats all I do and as long as the area is clean, works like a champ.

I did this today, but I used rtv adhesive, not gasket maker. I used degreaser instead of brake cleaner. I don't mind replacing the whole axle, but I'd like to find out if this one's gonna last for a while without snapping. I'll clean it up again tomorrow and put a dab more rtv on it. I figured somebody had to have patched it up like this before.

 

If it's the live-rubber boot, you can use rubber cement to seal it up. I've done this on several boots with small tears or pinholes, and they are still running strong. If the tear is over 3/8? long, replace the boot or axle.

 

If it's the live-rubber boot, you can use rubber cement to seal it up. I've done this on several boots with small tears or pinholes, and they are still running strong. If the tear is over 3/8? long, replace the boot or axle.

It's the outer boot. there's actually 2 small tears at the very outer edge where the cup is. I patched them, but one needs to be re-patched. I'm gonna change the axle out, but just need something to get me by for the moment.

 

I swapped it out yesterday for a new one.

 

I've got a very small crack that I'd like to patch. Would rtv or epoxy work?

use some bubbagum. that'll do it. :thumb:

 

coulda got a split boot

 

split boots are JUNK!!!!!!!

 

I know I dont use them easier but no better than trying to patch it

 

an outer CV boot can be easily replaced ,on any td, with the correct boot for under $20 and 20min of you time. so what's the big deal? why replace the whole shaft?

oops, I forgot, its a TD so therefore $20 just might break the bank.

 

an outer CV boot can be easily replaced ,on any td, with the correct boot for under $20 and 20min of you time. so what's the big deal? why replace the whole shaft?

oops, I forgot, its a TD so therefore $20 just might break the bank.

yea i usaully snag a few from the junkyard when i am there cause they are like 32 cents

 

Refer to this thread: http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121851

 

I can never keep my axle manufacturers straight--GKN, ACI, Citroen, etc....

On a '92 car with the 523/543/568 transmission, there is only one aftermarket boot in existence that will work on the drivers side inner joint, and it doesn't work all that well and requires re-using the old clamps on the big end of it.

I special ordered several of them at the auto parts stores, and only one would work because they were all too thick of rubber and would hit the transmission housing. If you used a universal clamp, that, too would hit the housing, hence the reason for needing to re-use the old clamp.
So, instead of driving 30 miles to the nearest Chrysler dealer, I looked at a reman axle that they had in stock. Well, it was the same style axle, which I wanted, but it had the boots that wouldn't work!!

The boot that "worked" came from Champion auto--at least that is what it used to be called. They call it "value auto" now. I can't remember the brand name. Its been on for over 12k miles, and holding up okay, but is slinging trace amounts of grease. I just go to Mopar now and after my 20% discount, it is only marginally more expensive than the local auto parts store and I only have to do the job once, not 2-3 times to get it right.

 

I can still get them Mopar. Really when you get an axleshaft/boot you should tell the parts guy what shaft you have. Engine and transmission combination doesnt mean jack. I have ran into it before trust me. We get cars in the shop all the time that spit axles. They actually are different lengths. You gotta count the ribs. Here ya go.

Christian this was probably your problem. The dumbasses at Autozone just pick whatever one they have in stock or their computer doesnt even list different ones. There are in fact 4 different manufacturers, and they lengths do vary by small amounts like mm's. What car/engine/trans means nothing. Go by manufacturer.

 

Well, it's funny you mention this. The last axle I got looked a little bit different from the previous 2. There's no way to specify which axle style I want/need at the parts store. The axle manufacturer shouldn't matter so long as it's made for the same car and the length is the same.

 

According to the books and the dealer, the car in question only came with one style of axle. I know that in the 80's same year, same make/model, same engine, same transmission, different style axle, which is why they usually ask what brand of axle you have. To my surprise, question was never asked when I went to get the boot for the car in question.

According to the diagram above, it has to be the ACI axle I was working with, going by the tripod-shaped inner joint housing. The original mopar inner boot is a 2-piece design. Aftermarkets are 1-piece. The boot from NAPA works fine on the passenger side because there is no transmission housing to hit.

 

Well, it's funny you mention this. The last axle I got looked a little bit different from the previous 2. There's no way to specify which axle style I want/need at the parts store. The axle manufacturer shouldn't matter so long as it's made for the same car and the length is the same.

well you are kinda right, they ARE different. Aftermarket parts are gay. I spent 3 weeks one time to get back an axle for a spirit 2.5 sent out as a core. I had to have it 'made' at a shop. That was a long time ago, i learned my lesson. Even the mopar books aernt always right. I just give the aftermarket companies an OE number to cross and they are like that doesnt fit that car. Uhh yea it does. But yea the manufacturer DOES matter. I had a Caravan one time that spit 4 axles, didnt even make it off the lift, and come to figure they all were car axles, from Carquest (reman).

 

According to the books and the dealer, the car in question only came with one style of axle. I know that in the 80's same year, same make/model, same engine, same transmission, different style axle, which is why they usually ask what brand of axle you have. To my surprise, question was never asked when I went to get the boot for the car in question.

According to the diagram above, it has to be the ACI axle I was working with, going by the tripod-shaped inner joint housing. The original mopar inner boot is a 2-piece design. Aftermarkets are 1-piece. The boot from NAPA works fine on the passenger side because there is no transmission housing to hit.

Well if it works for you cool. You are talking to a 'dealer'. Most parts guys just say no its ns1 cause they are to retarded to find it in the catalog.

 

I believe I have the ACI axle (tri-pod thingy) and on the passenger side I have an SSG or saginaw axle. I've been driving it around a bit and haven't had any more issues. I compared the length to the axle I had originally removed and they were the same, so as long as my centering holds up, then I hop I'll be fine.

Does anyone make stronger aftermarket axles for our cars?

 

Well if it works for you cool. You are talking to a 'dealer'. Most parts guys just say no its ns1 cause they are to retarded to find it in the catalog.

Yea, I can second that. Been there many times.

 

Does anyone make stronger aftermarket axles for our cars?

I was at a car show earlier this year and a kid had an L-body with an aftermarket axle in the passenger side. It had the ABS reluctor or whatever on it. I don't think it was supposed to fit in there, but it was in there and it looked pretty beefy.

Gary D was selling "severe duty" axles. Thats all I know.

 

I drove the car extensively today. I think I'm about to have another axle blow out. When I get on it I'm starting to feel an increasing amount of vibration. Is it possible for the driver's side axle to scrape the k-frame?