Sounds like a timing problem, these cars can jump a belt pretty easy, had it happen several times. Go to Donovan's Dodge Garage under turbo database scroll down to #33: Checking cam and Distributor timing, he has a quick procedure there to check timing. Start there, verify timing (or out of time) and check back. Oh BTW welcome to turbododge!

 

Thanks I will try this out tonight. I am sure it has the be the ignition timing because it happened right after i did the tuneup. But I will check the cam timing while I'm at it because this wouldn't be the first time that some freak coincidence caused a problem at the exact time i completed work on something else.

also I was thinking about it and realized (duh) that when i have the timing covers off, I will probably see the timing marks on the block underneath the covers. I was having a dumb day the other day I think.

Thanks again,
Jordan

 

Good luck let us know how you make out

 

Welcome To TD!!!

Numerous times I have seen a piece of dirt get on the electrode of the plug during installation and cause driveability issues.
Also be sure the ignition wires are snapped completely into the cap.

 

So I went to the page turbot11 suggested and the engine timing is correct. But the check he says to do for the distributer yields some interesting results. The dust. Isn't just off a few degrees its off just shy of 90 degrees.

 

With the #1 at TDC ( the mark on the flywheel at 0 ) where is the rotor pointing at? Can you get us a pic?

 

With #1 piston @ TDC on a compression stroke and the marker on the timing mark at 0 the distributor rotor should be pointing to #1 on the cap.
If it is not either the intermediate shaft is not aligned properly with the crank or the oil pump was previously removed and not re-installed correctly.

Verify intermediate shaft alignment
If OK...
Verify oil pump slot is parallel to block

CAM TIMING
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/359212-cam-timing-belt-tension-84-95-a.html

 

The Cam is properly timed. I'll have to assume the oil pump was installed wrong or the car wouldn't even start if the distributor was out that much. I re-checked all the installations and can't find an issue. I even re installed some old parts to see if things changed. I bought for fuel system cleaner and throttle body cleaner. I am also going to buy some combustion chamber cleaner tomorrow as the owners manual recommends it every 12,000 km. I am also going to try replacing the plugs and wires again, cause I got an off brand online, I think there may be an issue there.

Thanks again and I will definitely keep you posted,.

 

Replaced the wires and plugs, no luck. Will try a new coil tomorrow.

Here is a picture of that connector I said I couldn't find a spot for. I am not sure if it had one before. Maybe someone with the same car could compare it?

 

That most likely snaps onto the coolant switch in the head between # 1 and # 2 cylinders. Or it goes to oil pressure switch, the 'bell' looking thing protruding out from the block under the #4 cylinder

 

i can tomorrow

 

Yeah that looks like temp gauge connector. Up and to the left of distrib. But looks kinda short.If your temp gauge works them maybe the coolant temp in the water box on head. If it has the effect on runability as the coolant sensor on my 89 it could cause you issues. I have learned its a major part of gauging air fuel mixture.

 

There is a longer one that looks the same that goes to what looks like a temp sensor to the left of the distributor. It is connected. And there is one that looks different (2 pin) that connects by the thermostat. This one is oddly out of place

 

Do you have an oil pressure gauge or just a light ?

 

89tona has it...that is the oil pressure gauge wire that the car probably don't have.

 

yea its just a light. thanks

 

Ok to today I verified the cam timing.

I replaced the belt and followed the steps provided. Cam pulley lines up, notch on oil pump lines up, rotor at #1. Still sputters and burps. put in new coil.... I think there is a slight difference, but am not sure if I'm just going crazy or not.

Next step from here will require a little but of ingenuity from my days as a teenager. I am going to make a third lung, fill it with cigarette smoke and check for vacuum leaks. then if none are found ill look into a new condenser and a new ignition pickup

 

Or you could just put a vacuum gauge on it. These engines are VERY sensitive to vacuum changes. If the gauge doesn't read at least 16 inches of mercury, you're leaking somewhere. Are you getting any fault codes? A vacuum leak that bad would trip a code 13 fault and put you in limp mode, which explains why it tries to die over half throttle.

 

i wasnt getting a code before but go code 32. From what i found it means:

"Code 32: Lamp or EGR failure

For model years 1985 and above code 32 will be thrown if the ECU doesn’t see a change in the air/fuel ratio when the EGR circuit activates. The power limited light will not be lit and the system will not enter limp mode. Causes and solutions include:

Poor wiring or connection - Read the page ‘How to troubleshoot drivability issues’. Check the wiring and connections from the logic module to the power limited lamp. Clean and re-grease the connectors with dielectric grease.

Defective EGR valve - Failed emissions may result if the EGR valve is stuck open or closed. At idle or low RPM if the engine runs poorly the EGR valve may be stuck open. This symptom may also be the result of the transducer valve. Check to see if the transducer valve for vacuum output. When at idle there should be no vacuum output from the transducer. The vacuum should increase when the RPM is raised. If the transducer is working properly the EGR valve should be replaced.

Defective EGR solenoid or Canister purge/EGR solenoid - The solenoids are located in the right, front fender in a cluster of up to 4 solenoids. In later years the EGR solenoid is mounted on the vacuum transducer, which is right next to the EGR valve. If a signal from the harness to the solenoid measures 12vdc when the solenoid is off the solenoid will need to be repaired or replaced. See Solenoids-101 for information about how solenoids work and how to test them.

Original is at Chrysler Fault Code 32: Lamp or EGR failure http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-32.html#ixzz2ORK4BbHD
Follow us: @allparcom on Twitter | allparcom on Facebook"

 

Well I finally figured it out. I am so embarrassed I don't want to say what it was

The code 32 was a small vacuum leak. Bit that didn't solve the problem. The clearance cap and rotor set I bought was. Runs like a dream again. Didn't think the cap and rotor could have been it but they were. Thanks again for all your help. Let this be a warning to all Don't buy cheap parts. Even simple ones.

 

Don't buy cheap parts. Even simple ones.

Amen! learned that lesson last year when I decided to go with the 'economy' ball joint rather than the Moog unit. 2 new Moog ball joints and ANOTHER afternoon of installation lesson learned. Glad you got it figured out, now how about a pic of 2 of the car!

 

I am washing it tonight and ill get you some pictures for you.

 

Here is a link to some of my pictures guys. http://www.turbododge.com/forums/members/50498-mcjordan-albums1369-my-stock-85-600.html