pretty much going to toss out here it was your oil pressure dropping out.
once you get 0 oil pressure you get check gauges..

good luck.

 

or maybe the gas tank is less than 1/4 full
note you should not beat on the car with a low gas level as this can lean it out hurting the engine

check gauges means check gauges for something that is either to high , to low or not reading anything

with a digital cluster the gauge should automatically switch to show the gauge in question

 

"Check Engine" light means there is a problem with one or more of the systems that supply info to the engine controller or a system that is controlled by the engine controller and will have a fault code/or codes set in memory.

"Check Gauges" light means there is a problem with the Charging System (Not Charging/Overcharging), Cooling System (Overheating) or Oil Pressure (drops below 4 PSI).
This is designed to alert you of a problem with basic systems.
Low Fuel usually is a "Ding" from the Chime Module with a Gas Pump illuminated on the dash.
Generally comes on with only 2-3 gallons left in the tank.

 

I take it the sensors are suspect here as well under "check gauges" condition?

I seem to remember we favor Standard brand?
@RockAuto, of course

 

I take it the sensors are suspect here as well under "check gauges" condition?

I seem to remember we favor Standard brand?

@RockAuto, of course

There are no sensors involved with the Check Gauges light other than the Coolant Temp Sensor which would communicate to the engine controller the coolant temp was too high.
Are you having an overheating/temp gauge reads high issue?

1)Low Fuel Level
2)Engine Overheating/Running Hot
(Low Coolant Level, Poor Water/coolant Mix, Collapsed Hose, Water Pump, Radiator, Thermostat, Head Gasket, Cooling Fan, Air In System)
3)Charging System
(Alternator, Battery, Battery Cables, Engine Controller/Voltage Regulator, Wiring)
4)Low Oil Pressure
(Low Oil Level, Sludge/Restricted Oil Passages, Oil Pump, Worn Cam/Rod/Main Bearings)

 

well first thing to note when check gauges lights up is , what are your gauges actually reading ??

any disscussion without that revelliant info is kinda pointless

 

So, not sure what the relevant data are...

Oil pressure gauge in dash runs at 3/4 of the dial...I put on a temporary gauge with an oil line from the oil sensor manifold to drive around. It shows 19 psi idle after warm up and 60 going down the road...it's a new Melling oil pump. (It shows 60 psi at morning startup).

Fuel pressure at the rail is a constant 55 (from inline gauge in compartment, and Just now put on new fuel filter).

Symptoms tonight: ...after driving around, parked for 30 minutes then upon startup "check gauges" light comes on and periodic stumble occurs as tach dips. It dies at a light, starts right back up. It also died this morning when I put it in reverse. Also, (weird) the "check gauges" light seems to come on and off with my headlight switch.

Infrared thermometer shows 180 deg on the thermostat housing. In car temp gauge never crosses the half-way mark.

NAJ: "There are no sensors involved with the Check Gauges light other than the Coolant Temp Sensor which would communicate to the engine controller the coolant temp was too high." Do you mean the single pin or double pin coolant sensor?

Batt/alt gauge is normal, but could be misleading. I cleaned the throttle body (off engine) and suspect the TPS. I Did not reset the AIS yet with the brake booster hose disconnect trick.

 

revelliant
lol

 

I can get the charging system checked tomorrow at AutoZone.

 

You my have a ground issue.
What if anything was done to this vehicle before this issue started?

 

Hey Naj: were you able to look at post #9

- AZ and O'reilly with an Autometer (running test) show a bad voltage regulator.

The dealer shows My VIN to have an external VR. Seems like that is the place to start and matches my symptoms.

O'reilly and AZ show the pictured VR, which is not seemingly correct, visually.
The dealer says this lighter pic or what the service manual calls the starter relay is the VR.

Oreilly says I have a nippondenson alt rather than Bosch. How do they know? My current alt is of a slotted body, but that does not mean it is the correct alt in the van now.

So, is the VR in the SMEC power module or the alternator, or where? ...some descriptions says both (2).

I have read some of the other posts and have swapped out a spare Power Module. Starts. Will drive later.

 

single wire temp sensor on front of head is for gauge

double wire water temp sensor on t stat box is for the controler

they are in no way connected nor do they have anything tpo do with each other

stalling might be due to a voltage issue but stoping at a light and shifting into reverse could have one thing in common
your foot on the brake peddel

aka possiable vac booster leak

I had a carb motor that shut off at the lights on an off ramp every time - turned out to be the booster

plug the hose and carefully drive it without power brakes
if the stalling stops you might need a booster

 

Assuming that this is a charging system problem...

Voltage regulator is integral to the Power Module and is not serviceable by itself.

What if any fault codes are set??? (41, 46, 47)

If you do have an ND alternator there is a tin cover on the rear.
Worn brushes are the biggest issue with the ND alternator.
If needed you can get a new brush holder online.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f280/1210242-nd-alternator-brush-holder-replacement.html

 

The alternator test (volts across battery) only show 11 volts at idle. So I'm looking for the brush holder on Amazon (for prime) and I'm not sure which one goes to my specific alternator (or are all nippondenso alts the same on our cars (inc 89 turbo caravan).? Also, Rock does not show this item.

If I get an alternator can I get a 120 amp or must i stick with th 90 amp? Diff/why?

 

The brush holder is not available in the conventional aftermarket.

"Prime"???

It's $8.00 with Free Shipping

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-J...e:Chrysler&hash=item2edc707718:g:xcQAAOSw9IpX1wil:sc:USPSFirstClass!11758!US!-1

If the brush holder checks OK you will want to run Code 41/47 diagnostics to determine if the issue is with the alternator, SMEC or wiring.

 

Thanks for the info.

Sorry...I prefer Amazon prime when I need faster shipping...Rock has taken recently 10 days

 

Sincere thanks,

I'm calling it officially fixed

Conclusion: having (from the above input) differentiated the "check gauges" and "check engine" light conditions, I went down the correct path to replace the alternator. A rebuild would have no warranty, and in this case I got a lifetime warranty on a $95 reman.

This year I put on a new melling oil pump, inner and outer tie rod ends, 205/70/15 tires, got an alignment and now the alternator. She is still a keeper and a daily driver Next is the leaking freeze plug and front crank seal. Then I'll focus on checking the injectors. I put back in my FWD Performance stage 1 SECM so I have better cooling, etc. Also, my fuel pump has a humming noise so we will see where that goes.

Thanks again for all the input