It keep blowing because it has a sort, find the sort.

 

yeah I know that much, and I've checked all the likely places.

 

I looked at the old thread and you should do what NAJ said to do in that one post the fuse number blowing and also list the model and year so when he finds this thread he can help by posting a diagram to look at. with out one we are just talking garbage.
Tim

 

Yes, what Tim said.

 

What are the circumstances leading up to it? What Tim said, too.

 

ok, fuse number is 6 on an 88 daytona shelby z

the vin is the a series and not the e

circumstances, well, if you read the previous post, my fuse continuously blows.

the current running from my main power wire from my battery is sparking every time I put a fuse in there.

the original problem was that the current was arching through my flasher control for my turn signals, I solved that problem, and the fuse quit blowing for about three days.

on the third or fourth day I went to check, and it had blown again.

I've been searching again for a short or possibly another current problem, but I can't find one and need a bit more help on the matter than what I can think on it for myself.

 

Possibly what you mean is that your fuse randomly blows. If it were continuously blowing, you would put one in, it blows, you replace it, ....... What I'm getting at is, is the dome light on when it happens? Are you using your window? Are you stepping on the brake? Or do leave your car with a perfectly working electrical system, you come back awhile later to find that it's happened again? When you see the arc, is your door open? If it is, try putting the fuse in with it shut & see if it happens still. I don't know if you have an under-hood light or not, or if it's on the same circuit, but is it on when you replace the fuse & see the arc? That's kinda what I meant by circumstances. I don't think I'd post without reading the whole thread first.

 

yes, when I put one it it automatically blows.

and no last time i did not see the arc, but I did see where it had blown a hole in my flasher control.

and last time I replaced the fuse while the door was open.

but I'll try it with the door closed.

I don't see why it would make a difference, but you never know.

and no, the hood light isn't on the same circuit.

and also, when I had it fixed last, I left my car with a perfectly working electrical system, and I came back with it not working.

 

what did they fix on it last ?also in my line of work I spend half my week locating shorts in construcion equipment ,I am well aware it sucks and is frustrating,Things I have learned :
1:what was the last thing that got repaired befor this problem started?
2:what wires move (door wires opening/closing,wires in high vibration areas,ect..
3:disconnect one componet at a time (drives window motor,pass window,turn signal switch ect...
I also have a 87 daytona but I have the pacfica model I just replaced the turn signal switch a couple of months ago,mine has a tilt wheel and there are some places a wire could be shorted out in the colum is your shelby a tilt wheel? Please let me know if this helps .

 

Unfortunatly there is no simple answer for this one, it will take detective work, time and patience.
The power feed out of fuse # 6 is circuit # M1/18 PK and runs underhood to the hood lamp,runs to both doors for the power mirrors, to the stoplamp switch and under the headliner and to the rear of the car for the courtesy and cargo lamps.
Start by disconnecting components one at a time, if you still blow fuses you will have to open and trace the harness to locate the short to ground on circuit M1.
This will be easier if you can get a short circuit detector with audible alarm.The one I have plugs into the fuse block in place of the fuse, it allows a small amount of current thru the circuit for testing and when it detects a change in current such as when you wiggle the harness where the short is located and the wire moves an audible beep will sound letting you know you have located the problem,also you will not have to keep replacing the fuse to check the circuit.

 

I had a simaliar problem. It ended up being the wires at the door hinge area (where the wires in wrap pass from the door to the inside of the car) . If that makes sense. Opening and closing the door eventualy wore the some wires inside of the black protective wrap and it shorted out. Just my 2 cents.

 

do a voltage drop check on the effected circuits one wire at a time. you will need a quality dvom. digital volt ohm meter. naj already gave you the schematics/ w wire colors

 

thanks guys.

I really appreciate it.

I'll let you know if any of your suggestions work tomorrow.

 

I found the problem, solved it, and now we're working again.

thanks for all your help.

I think the biggest help was unknowingly telling me that the "header" listed on hte fuse diagram was the hood lamp.

never would have guessed.

but the wire to the hood lamp had gotten caught in the coil spring on the drivers side of my car, flattening it out, and making the said short.

thanks again.