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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Engine Harness
1)
As far as it having the wrong harness (88 as opposed to 89), if the car is early production 89 it may have been a running change by Chrysler, IDK.
2)If you can read it, what is the production date on the door sticker and what are the 8th and 10th digits of the VIN?
10th digit J=88, K=89

Diagnostics
1)
To help narrow down what may be causing your intermittent running issue, I would suggest performing an engine running wiggle test on all of the wiring when the engine is running fine in an attempt to duplicate the problem.
2)If you have access to a scanner, watching sensor values when the engine is running fine as opposed to when it starts running poorly may narrow down the circuit you are looking for.
3)If you do not have a scanner you can place backprobe pins in the Signal and Signal Return lines for the Map Sensor, TPS, CTS and HO2S so you can easily move your digital voltmeter from one sensor to the other.
Of course it is much easier if you have more than one meter.
4)I would also suggest teeing in a vacuum gauge between the Baro Solenoid and Map Sensor and connecting a fuel pressure gauge and leaving everything hooked up.
a)Record all of the sensor info, if the O2 is switching above/below .450 volts, fuel pressure, engine vacuum when the engine is running well then compare those readings when it starts running poorly.
b)Signal and Signal Return for...
*Map Sensor - DG/RD and BK/LB
*TPS - OR/DB and BK/LB
*HO2S - BK/LG and BK/LB (on the harness side) BK and GY on the O2 side of the harness.
Spent some time looking for the Fuel pump ground and have not been successful have the entire car ripped apart and can't find it.

I can't find this one that's Labeled rear wheelhouse.
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Or this one
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Found this one
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Can you spot anything?
 
If the ground was not present neither the fuel pump or fuel gauge would operate.
If you are thinking it may be loose, corroded, etc, check continuity from the fuel pump connector to ground, < 5 ohms resistance.
The other suggestion, tap into the ground circuit with weathertight connectors and run new ground wires to a convenient spot.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
If the ground was not present neither the fuel pump or fuel gauge would operate.
If you are thinking it may be loose, corroded, etc, check continuity from the fuel pump connector to ground, < 5 ohms resistance.
The other suggestion, tap into the ground circuit with weathertight connectors and run new ground wires to a convenient spot.
When I traced The Wire from the fuel pump it went here but in the video it actually runs with it unhooked so it must have multiple grounds?
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Cleaned it up with a wire brush on a drill anyways since it was painted originally.

The passenger one actually had something not hooked up.
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It didn't look bad but clean it up anyways.
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The cooling fan relay no longer gets hot or makes loud moaning sounds anymore.

Cleaned up the green hole in the black connector for the HEP.
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Since yesterday changing the injector harness it hasn't messed up just gonna keep driving it around.

If it does mess up again the only area that's really left is that bundle of wires behind the battery all the insulation's gone.
 

Attachments

If a ground is disconnected and the current finds an alternate path to ground it can cause all types of issues, such as components being powered even when they are off.

Back when I was Jeep tech, we had a Grand Cherokee come in with a dome light that would not turn off.
It turned out that the fuse for the interior lights blew and the current found an alternate path to ground through the dome light so it stayed constantly lit.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
If a ground is disconnected and the current finds an alternate path to ground it can cause all types of issues, such as components being powered even when they are off.

Back when I was Jeep tech, we had a Grand Cherokee come in with a dome light that would not turn off.
It turned out that the fuse for the interior lights blew and the current found an alternate path to ground through the dome light so it stayed constantly lit.
Yeah I've seen that a bunch of times. on a Nissan Altima the ground wire broke so every few months the wheel bearings would get destroyed because it was grounding through the wheel bearing.

Hopefully this car is all set but if not I'll have to do something with that bundle of wires by the battery.
 
If your hobby is cars and you enjoy restoring/correcting other people's mistakes/neglect then you should be in your glory.
Me, at 69 and over 40 years of working on cars I do not even want to work on my car and put it off until I cannot put it off any longer.
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
If your hobby is cars and you enjoy restoring/correcting other people's mistakes/neglect then you should be in your glory.
Me, at 69 and over 40 years of working on cars I do not even want to work on my car and put it off until I cannot put it off any longer.
Pushing 40 already done with Autozone parking lot engine swaps and most big jobs. Barely want to fix my own projects at this point. When that stock Lebaron popped up went with that instead of trying to fix this thing and get the non-existent AC system going.

Can't stand modern cars. They are built to fail and too annoying to work on. Apparently Ford is using rubber timing belts and oil pump belts that are soaked in oil designed to fail right after the warranty.

Going to keep these 80's cars going.

Been driving this thing for almost a week now and it hasn't messed up since so maybe it's finally "fixed"

Drove it to work yesterday and was bribed to go on a hour and a 1/2 round-trip to go look at some 2018 Ford 3.5 that has a bad coolant leak so took the car on its first long ride.


For the first time it actually made a long ride without any issues no stalling sputtering long cranks idle issues nothing.

Before you would have to crank it forever and it would just stall out constantly for about 10 15 minutes and then it would just randomly shut off even when it was warmed up.


In summary

Replaced Fuel pump, fuel filter, and cleaned fuel tank.

Cleaned 2 interior harness grounds.

Replaced aftermarket HEP with old oem HEP. Found aftermarket HEP pins are too small for stable connection.

Replaced injector harness. Rubber was missing wires badly corroded.

Replaced TPS was scratchy and voltage spiking.

Reset timing ignition and Cam/crank.

Cleaned engine bay grounds added more.

Replaced SMEC and one pin on harness. SMEC nut was missing no way to secure plug.

Going to mainly drive this thing winter and bad weather since it's already rusted out underneath.

That 2018 Ford is only 6 years old found the water pump is bad, that water pump job is over 10 hours luckily blue devil seems to work...
 
I just have to say I appreciate all the things you have done to keep your old car running! Good job, my friend!
Keep it up, and don't give up.
I recently found the Ground wire for the fuel pump on my '89 Dodge Lancer Shelby.
It was right at the back of the car behind the plastic panel between the taillights. It was not rusty, but the sheet metal screw was fastened to an area that still had paint. This means that the only contact to ground was at the threads! I used some sandpaper to get bare metal and reattached the wire. I had just replaced the fuel pump too.
In your case, I am sure that it has something to do with the rain.
My brother drove an '89 Shadow Turbo and it broke down in the rain. I was his mechanic, so I rushed out to his location alongside the freeway.
Of course it was raining, and it was winter, and the sun was setting. The car had no spark. We all know that you need spark and fuel to start any engine.
I gave him a ride home and planned to come back in the morning with my truck and tow dolly. This is because I absolutely loathe working on cars in the rain alongside the freeway. I planned to bring it homw and give it a proper diagnosis. In the next morning --We had to drive North past the car, take an Exit, and head back the other way. As we drove North, We looked over and saw that the car was still there ---but the hatch was up and it looked like the car was being rummaged through! ...but No one was there.
By the time we got turned around, the car was gone!
Later, I saw a report on the TV newscast, that a theft ring was stealing cars off the Freeway and crushing them! That was the end of my brother's car. We never saw it again. What a shame.
The Forum told me that there is normally a water shield over the ECU, but it was missing! That might have been the problem right there. A long dry Summer made me forget the rain, but ---guess what? Yup, now it's raining!
 
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