i have heard of some guys doing it, but i have never done it my self. to me it's ALOT quicker to just pull the head then to fight for access to all the bolts and studs.

 

Remove the entire engine out of the car.

 

Its Possible, but you will be there twenty times longer then if you had just removed your cylinder head, you have to fight and remove a bunch of crap to do it:bang head

 

Done it once. NEVER AGAIN! Its hard enough to get to the bolts on the damned thing with the head off, let alone with the stuff on. Took me hours to get that crap off. Takes me at max about 1 hour to do a head and thats if I am completely taking my time and like feather dusting each part. Much simpler to just remove the head then fight the manifolds

 

++ of with it's head !

 

Yes i can be done.. if your not in a hurry..

 

if mani's have been removed before, its a pain, but do-able
if mani's ar original and never removed, it's a BIG pain

either way, easier/quicker to pull head..
costs you 1 new HG, and set of head bolts

and you can inspect combustion chambers and cylinder bores

 

If the turbo and manifolds haven't been on the car forever and a day, then you can get everything off. I've done it a few times, and will be doing it again in the near future. First time takes a few hours. It takes me about 90 mins now.

1. Intake plumbing and throttle body have to come off
2. Removing starter gives you more room to work with too.
3. Drain coolant
4. Remove coolant and oil lines to turbo
5. Remove 3 of the turbo to manifold stud nuts
6. Remove turbo to block support
7. Disconnect downpipe
8. Remove final turbo to manifold nut
9. Pull turbo under, up and out from below the intake neck
10. Remove exhaust manifold nuts
11. Remove intake manifold bolts

When reinstalling, use a new one piece manifold gasket. Make sure to thread seal your exhaust studs if they came out when pulling the manifold. Use a new throttle body gasket when reattaching the throttle body.

 

Hey if you get to post a list so do I! I think i've already posted this on here a year or so ago, but since its relevant to this thread and may help someone, heres my head removal instruction list for a 90 daytona 2.5 turbo, but its an upgraded turbo (stock manifolds though). (i also have an engine removal instruction list if anyone wants one).

STEPS TO REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD WITH MANIFOLDS AND TURBO ATTACHED

ABOUT 2 HOURS

DRAIN COOLANT
move car to location where coolant can drain
disconnect lower radiator hose from water pump
remove radiator cap
let coolant drain (dont need every drop out)
disconnect heater hose tube from bottom of water box (channel locks)
disconnect upper radiator hose from thermostat housing (medium flathead)
once coolant has drained place tube back on water pump to keep further coolant from leaking out

remove dipstick retaining nut and swing dipstick bracket off the stud (3/8" wrench, 1/2" socket, 3/8" short extension)
remove dipstick and dipstick tube

loosen throttle body hose clamp and pop off throttle body air tubing
loosen clamp at air inlet of turbo and remove air filter tubing
loosen clamps at turbo output and swing j bend out of the way

disconnect ground strap from head near airbox (1/2" 3/8" socket and 3/8" ratchet)
unplug spark plug wires from plugs and center wire from distributor
disconnect coolant sensor on waterbox
disconnect coolant sensor near #1 cylinder
disconnect brake vacuum line from intake manifold (large channel lock pliers)
disconnect vacuum manifold from intake manifold
disconnect vacuum line from AFPR
disconnect AIS and TPS connectors and remove harness clip from throttle body (needle nose pliers)
disconnect throttle cable from throttle body (large channel lock pliers)
remove bolt from gnd strap and o2 sensor harness bracket from rear of intake manifold (1/2" ratcheting wrench)
remove grainger valve and tubing
remove 2 fuel injector rail bolts (3/8" socket wrench, 10mm socket, 3/8" long extension)
remove fuel rail/injectors from intake manifold and cover fuel injectors with trash bag
unplug knock sensor
**** as needed
put transmission in neutral
rotate engine to TDC via camshaft bolt (18mm socket, 1/2" socket wrench, flashlight, use flywheel marks)
verify camshaft sprocket timing is correct
****
detension timing belt and remove from camshaft sprocket (loosen tensioner nut with 15mm ratcheting wrench and wooden block from above)
remove EGT probe (.075" / 1.8mm short allen wrench, do without gloves, loosen as much as possible on first try, may get stuck)
remove upper 2 ac compressor bracket bolts (15mm ratcheting wrench)
jack passenger front side of car up high
remove turbo air scoop (3/8" short extension, 3/8" ratchet, 10mm socket)
from under the car, remove two bolts holding exhaust downpipe to swingvalve (1/2" ratcheting wrench, allen wrench, adjustable crescent)
remove two bolts from turbo oil drain tube flange (3/8" socket, 3/8" short extension, 1/2" 3/8" socket, 1/2" crowsfoot)
remove turbo to block bolt (on turbo side) (15mm 3/8" socket and 3/8" ratchet)
place large pan to catch coolant under turbo coolant line
loosen turbo to block coolant tube nut (11/16" wrench), LOTS of coolant will flow out
disconnect turbo oil feed line from block oil manifold and cap tube (9/16" wrench)
remove valve cover (3/8" long extension, inner 5 with 10mm socket, outer 4 with 1/2" deep socket, drill + adapter)
remove head bolts AND washer (1/2" breaker bar, 15mm socket, 1/2" extension, drill + adapter, magnetic pickup)
lower car off jack stands
place gray mat on passenger front corner of engine compartment, pushing hood pin through mat
put on thick gloves
remember to keep hood seal out of the way of intake manifold
place right foot on drivers shock tower and left foot on radiator crossmember, lift head off and put on mat then to floor

 

just take the head off its WAY simpler and u could prolly use a new head gasket/ and bolts neway. it's not hard at all, just do it.

 

I have done it on a Daytona and its a PITA no matter, pulling the head is the wayI'd go if I had the option.

One 'trick' to sometimes help: drop the front engine mount. This allows the engine to rock forward giving some additional room for work.

If the manifolds have not been off in a while, plan to have to pop a few nuts w/a chisel. Use a good fitting wrench! Avoid rounding the nuts if you can and life will be a little easier.

 

I put a standard T3 flanged turbo on my motor with an external wastegate off the back of the housing and I can have the turbo off in less then 45min without power steering. When I had powersteering it took me another hour to move that thing. Man is it nice, one of the many benefits of going to the t3 flange. Upper bolt holes are far enough apart that you can get to them with an open end wrench.

 

and heres the transaxle removal procedure. i really do apologize if everyone is getting sick of these:

manual transaxle removal procedure

90 daytona turbo 2.5 w/ A523 manual tranny

jack left and right up
point wheels straight
remove wheels (3/4" socket and impact wrench)
remove halfshafts
remove cotter pin (needle nose pliers)
remove lock cap, wave washer
remove big nut (32mm socket and impact wrench)
remove knuckle bolt and nut (18mm long wrench, 1/2" 15mm socket and short extension w/ impact wrench)
swivel sway bar mount caps out of the way (1/2" 15mm socket, short ext, 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" 15mm deep, 3/8" non ratchet)
place large oil catch pan under transaxle, oil will pour out when halfshafts are pulled out
using crowbar, push DOWN on control arm to pop knuckle out of control arm
remove turbo scoop (10mm, 3/8" socket)
remove intermediate shaft (3/8" ratchet, 15mm deep and short extension)
remove starter to block bolt (3/8" non ratchet + 15mm socket to loosen, then 3/8" ratchet to remove)
remove tranny to block bolt near starter bolt (1/2" 15mm socket + extension, 1/2" ratchet)
remove lower rear tranny bolt (1/2" 18mm, extension, ratchet)
remove lower front tranny bolt (1/2" breaker bar with 3/8" adapter to 18mm, then 18mm deep and 3/8" ratchet)
remove lower bellhousing cover screw (10mm ratcheting wrench)
remove air filter tubing (long flat head)
remove hot intercooler tubing (2nd clamp from turbo outlet, clamp after BOV toward intercooler, 10mm deep ratchet wrench all extensions)
remove starter nut and bolt (battery side) (15mm socket and breaker bar, then 15mm deep socket and 3/8" ratchet)
slide starter out of transmission
disconnect reverse plug
disconnect harness wiring snap clip from transaxle
disconnect shift cables and pull out of retainers (long skinny screwdriver, channel lock pliers)
disconnect clutch cable and pull out of transaxle (long philips)
remove upper front motor mount to transaxle bolt (15mm w/ breaker bar then deep 15mm and ratchet)
support transaxle with strap and bar across top of engine compartment
remove transaxle to transaxle mount bolts
remove transaxle mount to chassis bolt
remove transaxle mount
remove two upper transaxle to block bolts
transaxle should be slid out towards the drivers wheel
bobble strut must clear its bottom mount (try jacking transaxle up and then sliding it out a bit to clear bobble strut mount)
transaxle outside shift lever must clear control arm
heater hoses must not snag under transaxle
use the jack and strap to get the transaxle at the right angle to pull out