The vehicle is obviously loaded with fuel, you may have to drain the oil which is probably fuel diluted.
The vehicle is an 86 (not an intelligent engine controller), extremely rich, fouled plugs...

1)No Spark/Weak Spark/Intermittent Spark

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/p/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0

OR

2)Fuel Pressure High

Checking Fuel Pressure 84-93 Turbo

*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...

www.turbododge.com

3)Map Sensor Calibration/Vacuum

Code 13/14 Diagnostics/MAP Sensor Calibration

I am posting this so I do not have to keep typing this over and over and will make it easier for members to find help on their own. Fault Code 13/14... No Change In Map Voltage From Key On To Engine Start Map Voltage Does Not Equal Throttle Position. Map Voltage Low Map Voltage High Map...

www.turbododge.com

4)CTS Calibration

5)Injector Pulse Width/Shorted Ground Side Control Circuit

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-injector-signal-tester/p/oemtools-noid-light-set-injector-pulse-tester-8-piece/948078_0_0

6)Cam Timing

Cam Timing and Belt Tension 84-95 2.2/2.5L

This seems to be a major area of confusion and time lost during install or diagnosing as to weather the Cam is truly aligned properly. There have been numerous threads over time that the OP said the Cam timing was verified to be correct (checked it 3-4 times) and after a 4 page thread and...

www.turbododge.com

 

The vehicle is obviously loaded with fuel, you may have to drain the oil which is probably fuel diluted.
The vehicle is an 86 (not an intelligent engine controller), extremely rich, fouled plugs...

1)No Spark/Weak Spark/Intermittent Spark

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/p/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0

View attachment 277546

OR
View attachment 277549 View attachment 277551

2)Fuel Pressure High

Checking Fuel Pressure 84-93 Turbo

*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...

www.turbododge.com

3)Map Sensor Calibration/Vacuum

Code 13/14 Diagnostics/MAP Sensor Calibration

I am posting this so I do not have to keep typing this over and over and will make it easier for members to find help on their own. Fault Code 13/14... No Change In Map Voltage From Key On To Engine Start Map Voltage Does Not Equal Throttle Position. Map Voltage Low Map Voltage High Map...

www.turbododge.com

4)CTS Calibration
View attachment 277547 View attachment 277548

5)Injector Pulse Width/Shorted Ground Side Control Circuit

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-injector-signal-tester/p/oemtools-noid-light-set-injector-pulse-tester-8-piece/948078_0_0

6)Cam Timing

Cam Timing and Belt Tension 84-95 2.2/2.5L

This seems to be a major area of confusion and time lost during install or diagnosing as to weather the Cam is truly aligned properly. There have been numerous threads over time that the OP said the Cam timing was verified to be correct (checked it 3-4 times) and after a 4 page thread and...

www.turbododge.com

We used a old sparkplug and it had yellow weak spark sometimes You think swap in a coil/wires if it's weak?

Also gonna try checking Cam Timing. We tried moving the distributor but no change.

My 86 runs fine just badly rusted I'm thinking grab the lm,pm and the tb off it to swap parts but if mice chewed the harness it might be a lost cause.

If I go down today I'll report back on test results...

I have 5 quarts of 5w40 euro oil I can change it with if it runs.

 

During diagnostics I would unplug the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine even more.
Did you have the same "yellow, weak spark" when holding the coil wire 1/4" from a good ground and cranking?

 

Timing was definitely off. I did my old trick remove Cam gear and long screwdriver to set the intermediate pulley. I used the timing belt tool so I didn't have to remove anything below the top cover. Once I got the converter at the 0 mark I was able to line everything up...

It runs after setting Cam and ign timing. At 1st it started and the belt was screaming then it wouldn't start after that and then I noticed the hep decided to break at that moment...

Swapped in another hep and nothing but the 3rd one fired right up..

Heat is stuck on cold and I have over an hr ride back with no rear window and it reeks of mouse.

 

2 teeth off will do it, glad you got the car running and were able to drive home.

We will be waiting for more posts as you start to uncover things with the vehicle.

 

It made the ride back no heat,speedometer,gas Guage,windows don't work and reeks of mouse.

We found a perfectly sized couch cover and drywall screwed it to make a rear window temporarily.

This probably takes the Crown as sketchiest cheap car I've ever driven back.



Plans for the Dodge are gonna try to clean it and put on the new timing belt then hopefully get the heat working,put on the new top,fabricate a rear window,change fluids,do suspension,probably swap interior from my rotted 86. Later on swap to one of the T2 intakes I have then a front mount...

 

So bad ass... love seeing all these old turbo dodges being saved!

 

Saved to a degree.
Messed with it all day

Did the timing belt,oil change,bled one brake,cleaned more mouse fur/feces,cleaned up broken glass,taped up window, got heat working, and tried to get rid of piss smell but even pure bleach can't beat it. I bet they hid in the hardest to get to part of the heater box. When you turn the heat on no matter how much bleach you dump in the intake or vents it keeps coming back..

Might be easier to swap the whole interior and dashboard out of my rotted 86 Lebaron.

 

Rent yourself an Ozone Generator, that is what we used at the dealership for trade ins that had cigarette smell, musty/mildew smell, dog smell, etc.

Just Google Ozone Generator and you should find a place near you.

 

My cousin stopped by with some Ozium and it seems way better than the bleach. Gonna try that overnight before I seek out a Ozone generator (used em at the shop before)

Today hit the hardware store and I think 11" x 36" is the right size for a window so $14 got a nice plexiglass window all taped and drilled holes zip tied up. Also grabbed a 2ft bristle brush to clean the hvac. It started then stalled twice codes 15 (speed sensor) and 54 (Hep AGAIN) So LM is on the way out or wiring issues. But still runs good...

Now with a rear window instead of a couch cushion I moved towards the actual windows and messing with the fuses and popping off the door panel I got the 2 passenger windows working but the rear driver side just makes a noise and the driver side is MISSING EVERY BOLT even the window had none (I found one nut in the seat and it fit) the motor is just laying there disconnected....

The window motor looks real healthy

Also jiggling wires and the wipers work now...

I guess I'm gonna have to find the bolts or spend time in the hardware store parking lot....

 

Is this an intermittent wiper system or a 2 speed wiper system?

 

It has intermittent mode everything's working besides the high speed the low and all the Intermittent settings are fine after I ran that ground wire

 

The wiring is completely different between the 2 speed and intermittent
Power for low and high all travel through the same wire (RD/YL at the motor).
The only thing that changes from low to high is the circuit/resistance in the wiper switch itself.
If there is no power at the RD/WT wire at the motor check to see if you have power at the switch.
You will have power on low, how about on high?
If there is no power at the switch, replace the wiper switch.

Mopar Part Numbers
4221899 W/Intermittent, W/O Tilt

I found 4221899 online at RearCounter.com

4221899 are listed here. 4 found at 1 seller. View now.

www.rearcounter.com

4221902 W/Intermittent, W/Tilt
(Nothing found online)

PM being sent with wiring.

 

Aw man. I thought for a minute you had gotten a 600 sedan. What gives posting Honda and Volvo stuff?

 

The Dodge 600 has moved up in number one position of sketchy cars that actually made it back the other two were Honda's....

 

Was nice out so got a lot done

Plugs Rn11yc .32 gap
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Pcv
Air filter
Breather
Alt/wp belt
PS belt
Left brake hose
Battery
Motor mount
And somehow got the window working

Got a kit with the plastic wheel,drums and cover for the window motor. The new gear lost all it's teeth on 2nd lift. Swapped in the old gear and it works but goes too high and the roller almost pops out. Anyone know how to set the upper limit on the window?

This is what it's doing...

 

There is no adjustment that I am aware of (refer to the 1986 Electrical Manual to be sure.)

Chrysler 1986 Electrical Heater Air Cond. Front Wheel Drive Car Service Manual | eBay

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I would suggest you take a look in the Chrysler Parts Catalog to see if you can spot anything that may be missing.

Chrysler efiche parts catalog in pdf from 82 to 96

I have it all, in pdf. Full exploded views with chrysler part numbers. The real deal. Appears to be all cars and trucks from 1982 to 1996. If anyone needs a part number or an exploded view just let me know. For example, the 1990 passenger car pdf file (just THAT year) is 1468 pages...

www.turbododge.com

1986 Catalog, Group 23C - Body, Doors and Related Parts, Page 960, Figure 23C-2300

Also see Page 956, Figure 23C-2100.

 

Apparently I found the adjustment it was that silver metal thing that was flopping around when I lifted the window up-and-down. The bolt was loose so I would tighten it and keep adjusting until I finally got it where I needed it

 

I'm going to check out my '86 manuals for some light Thanksgiving reading. See if I can locate exactly what acts as the upper hard limit.

 

I ended up wiggling the wires on the motor and it works great all settings. But the car is too heavily infested with mouse urine so going to have to gut the whole interior it's just too far gone....

 

Stripped it down tossed carpet and the floors are actually solid no holes just surface rust and puddles of piss water. Found 2 metal plates but no idea why they are there. Underneath there's no holes...

Does anyone know how to remove the rear seat back? The bottom was 2 bolts and was nasty..

Plan is sand paint everything and maybe go with a rubber floor or just use the interior from my rotted 86 Lebaron..

 

Does anyone know how to remove the rear seat back? The bottom was 2 bolts and was nasty..

If its constructed the same as a shadow then undo the 2 pivot bolts then go in the trunk and remove the 5 + screws holding down the metal triangle peice holding the fabric to the back of the seat. The metal triangle will come with the seat along with the trunk carpet

 

Operation interior gut mostly complete. Everything besides the dashboard (Save the best for last) and door panels has been removed. Vacuumed the mouse poop and nuts out then painted the floor with Ace rust stop.

Step 2 is mostly complete remove red interior from rotted 86 Lebaron.

The Lebaron still runs and drives but with the severe rot it's getting the mouse infested Dodge 600 interior. The Floors are not critical but the frame is...

Is the Lebaron too badly rotted?
Was gonna keep it as a driving parts car.

 

Is the Lebaron too badly rotted?
Was gonna keep it as a driving parts car.

As long as it passes inspection keep it as a winter beater and parts car. Save the non rusted one for nicer weather

Maybe you should start spraying the underside of your cars with oil to rust proof them.

 

Hopefully Final update.

Finished today with getting it ready to be a around town car and next step is more power, suspension upgrades and brake upgrades.

Car seems all original with every part replaced being OEM.

Car only cost couple hundred and about $100 in parts it is turn key drive. Not bad for sitting almost 20 years infested with animals and a year of being outside with a broken window...

Interior is mostly assembled just have to do door panels then maybe the dash. The 6 gallons of hot soapy water I ran through the HVAC and bleach with a bottle of ODO-BAN and Finally OUT Pet Cleaner has made the heating system smell almost gone...

I might have a place to store the rotted parts car if not I'll strip it down and put the parts to good use. Driving it with no interior is really fun you hear everything even the gas sloshing around and the holes in the floor add character. The motor and trans is great no smoking or noises and the Turbo still spools good. Drove it yesterday to swap more parts off and put the rims on another car. If the snow gets bad this year I'll blow out the heater core and use it this winter...

 

Whatever you do, please don't put rubber mat or rubber backed carpeting down. In a climate where there is high humidity in the air it will always permeate everything. When the car is not always kept in a temperature controlled environment, the moisture in the air will condense in between the rubber and the floor, then it has nowhere to go. A '58 Plymouth that I owned was ruined by the previous owner. He didn't remove the factory rubber floor mat it had been optioned with after he had it shipped from Arizona. It only took ten years in his unheated garage to totally rust out the floor and make it worthless.😭

 

In the Northeast we don't get much of any humidity. The factory carpet is rubber backed. What would you recommend? My dad's Jeep wrangler he POR-15'd the floors and when water got in it just lifted off in a sheet and the floors got rotted anyways...

 

I think the final problem is the gas gauge and the speedometer not working. Fuel says empty and Speed is 0...

Getting a code 15 for the speed sensor so I'll change that.

As far as the fuel gauge the guy I got it from said he put in the gas tank and it looks like a mess...

 

Remove the connector from the sending unit.
Ground the signal wire (DB) and turn the key on.
If the gauge moves to full the issue is not wiring or cluster related, you have a sending unit issue.

 

Thanks it's a bad sender...

 

Aftermarket carpet that has no backing so it can breathe so the water can evaporate is basically the only thing that helps. Glad to see how much progress you're making. Awesome car!

 

Progress keeps getting held back by good parts deals popping up. Recently a 89 Shelby Z popped up for scrap price. It was like a parts bonanza but due to BS couldn't get everything but got more than enough parts for the price. Was not easy carrying a Engine,trans,head/intake/turbo by myself lol....

Going to try to finish the 600 soon it just needs a fuel sender, speed sensor, Top (in box) , and a T2 intake + FMIC (already in trunk).

 

Don't hurt your back man. Way back, I picked up a whole log TI engine complete from valve cover to oil pan, and throttle body to swing valve. Picked it up off of a truck and set it on a skid. How my back survived I don't know. It was a bad idea. Well, now I have three slipped discs. Probably started them that day.😬

 

I feel you but the guy with the car was not easy to deal with and I could have made another 4 hour round trip or just picked it up and left so I just summoned some ancient roman gods and got it in the car.

Just did the springs today in the station wagon so next time it's not almost dragging with all the weight I put in the thing...

 

Finally got some time to work on it.

Didn't drive it for a week and tried to run down the fuel to do the sending unit and not get wet but it wouldn't stay running. It stalled out of bunch of times and then I tried driving it and it just kept shutting off constantly no codes.

Tried multiple HEP'S and additional grounds/new battery terminal. It seemed to coincide with the speedometer (Always at 0 before) miraculously throwing out strange numbers (85mph parked) so unplugging the speed sensor brought it back to normal no more stalling.

Friend of mine has a 2007 Honda Accord and he had a no start no code condition that was a shorted speed sensor guessing that's what happened here.

Anyways put in the sending unit. The old one had a long hose and a black plastic thing at the end but it looks all messed up the guy I got the car from was kinda drunk and said it was a nightmare doing the tank.

It looks like the smaller hose for the vent was kind of smashed and he had another hose running from another nipple above the tank just hanging so I just put a stick in there because it's stunk like gas (oops?)

You can see the hose hanging there.

Anyways the sending unit read a little above half I have no idea if that's accurate but I did put in $10 it shot up to almost full so it's doing something.

Next took the melted can style speed sensor out. Bolt was almost impossible to get a socket on. Swapped the gear onto a used newer style sensor and spliced the wires to the old connector. The 1st few miles the speedometer just stayed at 0 but now it seems to be working fine.

Usually when I park the car there's a gas smell and it looked like there was a slight drip coming out of the grommet for the fuelneck.

Everything's new so it could just be that stick I put in the vent hose is forcing the pressure to go somewhere else but I'll figure it out.

 

Sounds like your timing belt might have slipped a notch or two. They recommended replacement at around 80,000 miles. The timing belts on these engines are thin with small teeth that will wear down and cause it to jump time. It souldldn't be hard to determine with a timing light. The good news is they are not excessively difficult to replace. The difficult part might be finding a new one and the gaskets. Best of luck to you.