Well had to finally do it and asked my computer, my son set up a AI program on my computer.

I asked :
What is allowable warpage on a 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2 liter turbocharged engine head?
It answered:
According to the 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2 liter turbocharged engine service manual, the allowable warpage for the cylinder head is 0.003 inches (0.0762 mm) maximum.

Scary my computer seems to know everything, but I guess it also depends on the type of headgasket you are using. Does anyone have other ideas or is this correct?

 

I also asked my computer about engine issues on a 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z.

It answered:
The turbocharged 2.2-liter engine in the Shelby Z is known to have some reliability issues, particularly with the turbocharger and the head gasket. Common symptoms of engine problems include overheating, loss of power, and oil leaks.

See how it knows everything...all the symptoms I am experiencing and that is why I started to tear into the engine of my car.

 

You are not allowed any more than .004" variance on the head and deck surface.
We use a Snap-On straight edge to check flatness.

When cleaning the head/deck surface Do Not use the 3M Roloc Reconditioning Discs, use the 3M Bristle Discs.
The Roloc Reconditioning Discs will leave minute particles in the engine that will destroy the bearings in short time.
YES

NO

 

Thank you for showing me the Chrysler Service manual page, that the spec for our cylinder heads have to be .004" and the clenaing tips. This helps a lot.
This goes to show you that you cannot always blindly believe everything on the internet or on your AI computer program and that checking the facts is important.

 

Gonna get flamed but I used this and got the head perfectly flat.

Perfectly flat ceramic tile
Sandpaper
Spray glue

Headgasket was badly blown.

After cleanup discovered critical cracks

Head was scrapped

Used head was Resurfaced same way not even the .0018 feeler gauge would fit anywhere under a straight edge.

Still daily driven no headgasket issues. This winter had to switch to a 195° super stant since the 192° Hi flow wouldn't let it warm up.

Be careful with the Fel-Pro there are 3 versions. U want the reinforced one.

DO NOT BUY THE $5 ROCKAUTO GASKET

I got burned with the crappy weak Fel-Pro

Here's the 3 Fel-Pro and the Apex I use.

Top is best Fel-Pro
Middle is trash
3rd is missing the corner reinforcement
bottom is Apex AHG1100

I go Apex but the decision is yours

 

Good advice,
Thanks Arieskcar for the pictures and the warning about the different Fel-Pro headgaskets. I guess I'll order it from Amazon, since it is free returns. I can compare what I get and return it if not good.

 

Amazon has your "best" FEL-PRO 9296 PT head gasket with the corner reinforcement. It was shipped and sold by Amazon for $18, so Amazon has the good ones.
I'm going to clean the head and block using the 3M Bristle Discs (thanks NAJ for the tip) and risk being .003" out on the edge of Cylinder #1 and see what happens. I'm going to tighten the new headbolts with the 45-65-65+ 1/4 turn technique. Not going to use the copper spray. Should I recheck after warm up to make sure they are all at 90 ft-lbs? Any other advice about cylinder #1?

 

The Fel-Pro is kind of hard. I would go Apex if it's not gonna be flat. Up to u. Apex fat fire ring vs Fel-Pro clip reinforcement.

I think you're supposed to use the white one for the aluminum and the green one for the block but I would look it up see which 3m disks u need. Also they need a special chuck.

I stopped using them a long time ago I just use a piece of ceramic tile with sandpaper so it's perfectly flat.

I used the white 3M Bristle disk on this head and ran the car for about 2 years on the Apex gasket it had no leaks. Car got scrapped. It was on a 2.5 T1. The gasket is still on the head in the pic

Before the Winter started I cleaned up that head with a razor blade and used a fel-pro gasket on this car. I still have yet to drive it though I just need to get the oil lines for the Turbo setup.

I think the Fel-Pro gasket is holding up....

 

In case someone wants to know the difference between the Fel-Pro headgskets they have a verison # on them on the face side on the left side next to cylinder # 1 right above headbolt#2 hole. There is an "R" letter and then a number. (if you zoom into the picture you can see it)
The best one is the latest version has R5 stamped on it with the corner reinforcement.
Version 4 with R4 stamp is the one without the corner reinforcement
I'm not sure which version is the crappy one in the NAPA packaging.
See picture below

 

In case someone wants to know the difference between the Fel-Pro headgskets they have a verison # on them on the face side on the left side next to cylinder # 1 right above headbolt#2 hole. There is an "R" letter and then a number. (if you zoom into the picture you can see it)

The best one is the latest version has R5 stamped on it with the corner reinforcement.

Version 4 with R4 stamp is the one without the corner reinforcement

I'm not sure which version is the crappy one in the NAPA packaging.

See picture below

Damn never noticed the R5 thing. Good catch.

Much easier to explain I need the R5 gasket than trying to explain what that clip is on the corner of cylinder 1 and 4.

 

Thanks for sharing your pictures.
You are right those Rock Auto "wholesale" FelPro gaskets are a mixed bag of old gaskets laying around they must have gotten from various stores. When I purchased the Shelby last Novemeber I knew I would need a head gasket and ordered many parts from Rock Auto to save on shipping. That was a big mistake. What I received was a dried out old FelPro R4 (version 4) headgasket, which I did not know at that time. When you shared your different FelPro pictures I ordered a new one from Amazon and I could compare the two gaskets. The new fresh FelPro was tackier and had the reinfordment corners. I sitll believe your Apex "fat ring" may be the best one.
It seems that all these gaskets fail at cylinders #1 and #4 near the triangular water jacket even the MOPAR performance headgasket. Now I understand why FelPro R5 (version5) reinforced those corners.
Thanks

 

This was my Mopar Performance headgasket bought online after 6,000 miles of use.

 

After replacing the head gasket, power steering pump and hoses, starter, all coolant hoses, belts, spark plugs, wires and ditributor cap, last weekend we started putting everything back together again and ran the car. We watched the fan come on and off, then drove it about 10 easy miles without overheating. No leaks yet and everything seems to be running fine. We have not taken it out on the highway yet. Even the 35 year old AC compressor is working, blowing cold air. Someone must have repaired the AC system in the last 3 years, because the person I got the car from didn't. I've never seen a Chrysler compressor last 35 years.

 

Chrysler engineer Dave Zelkowsky once told us to retorque after a couple of heat cycles.

He said he tried to get Chrysler to recommend retorquing but they declined.

Also, he recommended 95 lbs but 90 lbs the 4 corners

Thanks
Randy

 

Chrysler engineer Dave Zelkowsky once told us to retorque after a couple of heat cycles.

He said he tried to get Chrysler to recommend retorquing but they declined.

Also, he recommended 95 lbs but 90 lbs the 4 corners

Thanks
Randy

Thanks for the tip, when installing followed the Chrysler procedure with a calibrated torque wrench. For the final 1/4 turn I set the torque wrench to 100-ft lb and all clicked consistently just before 90 degrees. Then I went around to check if they were all 90 ft-lb and they were. I might do what you say but hate to take off the perfect nonleaking valvecover gasket.

 

Final product:
After several weeeks of driving everything works like it should. Initially there was an intermittent power steering leak, that confounded me until I read a post from @NAJ (from a decade ago) about checking to make sure no traces of the old power steering fitting Oring is left behind when installing new lines. Sure enough there was a sliver tiny piece (size of a pencil tip) of the old oring was sitting on the new oring. After removing and reinstalling then nothing leaked, radiator holds presseure, oil is still amber gold and everything works. HVAC controls and heat works, surprisingly even the AC works which I can't believe on a Chrysler vehicle. Now onto some electrical work and small rust patch on the drivers side floor board. It's almost ready for inspection. The only thing I did not replace so far is the front struts, they are a bit spongy but absorb most of the bounce, we'll see what the saftery inpsector says. Any advice?

 

Oh, forgot to mention to check out the solenoid vent filters in the picture above. I think 35 years ago Chrysler must have had some kind of a filter for these solenoid vents, so it's not getting unfiltered air. Must have gotten lost or derioratied over time. So I cut up the foam material off a small foam paint brush and glued to the open ends of the purge and MAP solenoid vents.

 

Oh, forgot to mention to check out the solenoid vent filters in the picture above. I think 35 years ago Chrysler must have had some kind of a filter for these solenoid vents, so it's not getting unfiltered air. Must have gotten lost or derioratied over time. So I cut up the foam material off a small foam paint brush and glued to the open ends of the purge and MAP solenoid vents.

They vent as in air out... They don't suck in.

 

They're open.

 

Some solenoids are normally open while others may be normally closed.
Your vehicle has 3 solenoids...
1)Baro Read Solenoid
2)Wastegate Solenoid
3)Canister Purge/EGR Solenoid

There are 3 ports on each solenoid.
1)Vacuum/pressure in from a manifold source
2)Vacuum/pressure out to the controlled device.
3)Vent, this port is left open, it's purpose is to vent any vacuum/pressure left in the lines to the atmosphere when the solenoid is cycled off.
This port had a foam filter on it from the factory, as you stated, they fall apart, I have not had filters on my vent ports for years, they are not really needed for day to day operation, however, if you are looking for that OE look and want everything aesthetically pleasing, then yes, put a foam filter on the vent ports.
The factory filters were not serviceable.

 

Great explanation and diagram NAJ,
I guess Tonatom and I were both correct. Those open ports vent any vacuum/pressure left in the lines to the atmosphere when the solenoid is cycled off.
Initially, I thought those open ports on the solenoids were missing a vacuum line but after looking at some other pictures and the vacuum diagram they are just an "open" vent port on the solenoid. It just felt missing something or maybe I saw it on someone else's car pictures so felt like putting cut pieces of foam ( from a foam paint brush) on those open ports to give it an original look.

 

Interesting. I don't recall ever seeing them on any of my TD's I've ever had.

 

The foam filters probably lasted as long as the plastic vacuum harness, for me that would be about 5 years, so my guess would be that the foam filters have been gone from my car for 28 years.

 

As long as the foam you are using allows air to escape/enter.
Yes, air will enter if there is vacuum in the line.
High pressure moves to low pressure in an attempt to equalize, if there is a vacuum (lower than atmospheric pressure)in the lines and the vent opens, outside air will rush in to fill the void, the same way/reason why air enters the engine. (and hot moves to cold, electrons flow + to - and water comes out of your faucet when you turn it on)
You can test this by applying a vacuum to the solenoid inlet port, attaching a vacuum gauge to the solenoid output port and actuating the solenoid. (you have to determine if the solenoid is normally open or normally closed). Appling vacuum to the input port with the engine off will tell you right away.
When solenoid operation is completed the vacuum gauge on the output port should drop to 0 if air was able to enter/escape through the vent filters.

 

Wow everything I ever wanted to know about the purge, Baro/MAP and Turbo Wastgate system. Thank you.
As for the Wastegate, seems like the computer controls the the turbo boost thru the wastegate. Driving around I have not seen the turbo gauge go over 9-10 psi max. I thought I read somewhere that the Turbo II's max boost was suppose to be 14 psi. Is this true ?? because I have not seen it yet. I have not pushed the car hard, since recently replacing the new headgasket. Is there any limitations or certain conditions that the addtional or 14 psi max boost occurs?

 

The non-intercooled T-1 was 7 lbs. of boost with 9 lbs allowed for short bursts. The intercooled T-2/T-3/T-4 were all 12 lbs. of boost from the factory.
14.5 lbs of boost is the max you are allowed with a 2 bar map sensor before you hit overboost shutdown.
If you are having an issue with low boost, you may have the wastegate opening too soon or a charge pipe leak allowing boost to escape to the atmosphere.
The easiest way to tell is to disconnect the vacuum line from the wastegate and plug it, go for a ride.
(Be careful not to hit overboost)
If you can now hit 12 lbs of boost the issue is with the wastegate opening to soon from pressure.
If you still cannot reach proper boost levels the issue is with the charge piping/BOV/intercooler/vacuum line/wastegate door/linkage.

One other note, the fixed vane turbo used in the T-II engines took 4.6 seconds to reach full boost (12 lbs.) from a standing start, so you will feel the lag.

The Dodge Daytona Shelby Z Is a Rad, Oddball 1980s Classic | Automobile Magazine

In the ’80s, the front-drive Shelby Z torque-steered its way into a sports-car market that included the Nissan Z, Mazda RX-7, and Mustang.

www.motortrend.com

.

The Dodge Garage

Turbo Database, The Hard Parts (Article 11 - Stock Turbochargers, which is which), click on "87 T-II".

 

Thanks I'll try those steps. However, I haven't tried going on the highway yet with it and keep the gas pedal down for more than 4 seconds. Engine has good pull all the way up to 40 mph. I did not feel a lag and I've driven a lot of cars from a Yugo to a Viper. Third and fourth gear has good pull. I haven't tried fifth gear yet. All the roads around me are 35 mph speed limited and need to drive far to get to a highway. After it is inspected I'll try it on the highway.

 

Thanks for also sharing the article about the 12 lb boost reference for the Turbo II. The article's author I guess was not aware why Chrysler heavily advertised the 0-50 accelaration time (not the 0-60) for the Shelby Z: "For some reason, Dodge's print advertising quoted a zero-to-50-mph time to the hundredth of a second. (That'd be 5.76 seconds, for the record.)"
I remember why they did it, which is why I liked these Turbo IIs. ...
That's because in 1987 in the press, the Dodge Daytona Shelby Z was claimed to be almost as fast as a Corvettte, not really but kind of looked like it. The 1987 C4 Chevrolet Corvette had a 0-60 time of 5.8 seconds.

 

0-50/60 is so irrelevant because it can be manipulated by weather, RPM launch, surface traction, driver skill, tire stickiness, electronics variances, even variances from one seemingly identical engine/ chassis combo to another. Ever see a freakishly quick car and another nearly identical car that was a pooch? I've seen countless numbers of them. Bolt on a set of slicks and launch from say 5K and drop seconds off those advertised times.
In almost every case, you can't run the full 14+ PSI on stock LM's or SMEC's without modifying as Chrysler built in overboost cutouts in different stages depending on the application. For example a 89+ 2.5 T1 will have a much lower overboost setting than say a 89 TII vehicle. That is why different zener diode values where used depending on electronics when modifying. I have a stock Chrysler MAP that reads 4 PSI lower than actual boost! My point is even the stock electronics like MAP, TPS, CTS, ACT can be over the place.

 

Todd,
I agree, I have been in identical cars (sometimes 5 identical cars) and some behaved much better than others.
So are you saying my Turbo II's electronics and sensors are now 35 years old and not in spec or optimized and I should not expect 12+ psi of boost?