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#141 ·
Shimming the spacer will not help bearing preload.Preload is adjusted from the left side bearing support under the cup.So you only need to pull out the seal and oil slinger puch out he bearing replace the shim.Reuse the bearing and slinger replace the seal.Oh ya 26 years Chrysler auto tech last 18 years trans rebuild experience.Hope this helps
 
#142 ·
looney, it was a die grinder and I couldn't hear over the sound of the grinder and the compressor. lol

As for welding behind it thats what I did. But I used JB weld. The problem too is you don't have a lot of space between the TC and the bellhousing to put anythign behind it. I used the JB Weld because it stayed soft for a bit and I was able to groove it where the TC rides.

David, I will but I was planning on sending mine back out for remachining. Unless you want to buy me the double bolted spacer and we'll trade straight up? ;)
 
#143 ·
Thank you

David Rose said:
Shimming the spacer will not help bearing preload.Preload is adjusted from the left side bearing support under the cup.So you only need to pull out the seal and oil slinger puch out he bearing replace the shim.Reuse the bearing and slinger replace the seal.Oh ya 26 years Chrysler auto tech last 18 years trans rebuild experience.Hope this helps
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Bill Reichert 35 years servicing and restoring pianos. Thanks for the help. Actually I messed up my first set of piano keytops when I was 12. That's 50 years ago. The garage I use has two grandsons in high school training. They will be the fourth gen to service cars.
Guess I need to dust off my dial indicator from the player piano rebuilding days and jury rig a holder.
 
#144 ·
looney tuner,
hey I was able to change bearing preload very easy, mine was loose too. First you do need to remove the bearing race just like david rose said. But it is a pita to put a shim in press the race in, and if it didn't work your out of luck, pull it back out. I took a old race I had and chucked it in a drill (kind of hard to do but it can be done) and put in on the belt sander. I took a couple thousands off the O.D. and turned the race into a slip fit. This way if you add shims and they are wrong, pull out the diff and slip out the race and put back in the spacers you need. This worked out great for me!
 
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#145 ·
I'm learning!!!

BTW I went through the case right where the black mark was in photo. The grinding WAs needed to clear the standard bolt heads. the only way I see to have enough real metal there is to torque all the bolts and then grind down the edge of the bolt head that is on the outer edge.
 
#148 ·
Is anyone ordering the spacers??

I need some bolts and wonder if I should order 100 at $1.50 or just order for myself at $1.95. The spacer is good to go. I think anyone grinding the housing and leaving it paper thin is asking for trouble.
The only other possibility I see is torqueing all the bolts down and grindng the bolt heads down a little on the edge towards the outside of the obx.
 
#149 ·
Ok, so if I were to send my spacer back out to have 12 more holes drilled and tapped and had the existing holes counter sunk and ran the 24 stock bolts I won't have to grind the case down at all? I've already got 23 stock bolts, I've lost one but can easily get another one.

And how much do your spacers cost if I don't feel like sending mine back out?
 
#150 ·
nobody else buying these spacers???

MooseMotorsport said:
Ok, so if I were to send my spacer back out to have 12 more holes drilled and tapped and had the existing holes counter sunk and ran the 24 stock bolts I won't have to grind the case down at all? I've already got 23 stock bolts, I've lost one but can easily get another one.

And how much do your spacers cost if I don't feel like sending mine back out?
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You still have to use the stock bolts where the clearance issue is. The cap heads go inside. You might as well use what you have. After you torque the bolts final time. I think grinding the bolt head for final clearance is the best way to go. If you have to remove the bolts later, you have a very serious problem already with a blown obx. In other words, it's already wasted.
 
#151 ·
I don't quite understand what you mean by, "If you have to take the bolts off you already have a serious problem."

As of now my Quaife is in the transmission that is in my car now. When my hybrid is done I will be putting it in that. Right now I'm using grade 8.8 bolts that have been ground down to clear the case. I'd be taking them out to put the stock bolts in after remachining my spacer.

And I still don't understand, are you saying that I've still got to grind my case even if I use the OEM bolts to mount the spacer and ring gear to the diff?
 
#152 ·
There is a clearance issue no matter what bolts you use.

Don't bother changing your 12 hole setup. just get some decent bolts. Those 8.8s are really not great.
 
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#154 ·
MooseMotorsport said:
Ok, so if I were to send my spacer back out to have 12 more holes drilled and tapped and had the existing holes counter sunk and ran the 24 stock bolts I won't have to grind the case down at all? I've already got 23 stock bolts, I've lost one but can easily get another one.

And how much do your spacers cost if I don't feel like sending mine back out?
Click to expand...
The spacers are $60.00 each. If anyone wants one, PM me. I am finishing the mill work on them this weekend. So far there are 3 sold to DBLTRBL, 2 sold to looneytuner. There are limited qtys for now, like 11 or so left. Next up are the diff cover spacers.
 
#159 ·
Mine just came in the mail. Looks fantastic! Fits perfectly. Professionally made.

I can see that alot of work went into these. Thank you Shadow T2!

It also appears the this version is lighter than the one I originally made. An added bonus.
 
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#160 · (Edited)
If anyone else needs bolts for their spacers let me know, I can get socket head cap screws M10 x 1.0 x 60mm in a 12.1 grade for about $1.20 a bolt.

My first order should be here within 10 days as they are a custom order they are being made.

*Edit*
I forgot to mention these bolts would be for the older style spacers not drilled for 24 bolts. Thanks LooneyTuner for pointing that out. :)
 
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